Reading time ≈ 4 minutes

High-quality gates that roll to the side when opening and closing help save space on the site. They are distinguished by their simplicity and ease of installation, durability and attractive appearance. Corrugated sheeting attached to the frame will protect the area from gusts of wind and significantly reduce noise in the area. Installing sliding doors is not difficult; you just need to carry out the preparation correctly and take into account the basic requirements of the manufacturer.

Blueprints

The simple design of sliding gates requires the presence of supporting elements that support the support and rebate frames. The depth of the foundation for a gate with a leaf of 3.5 m (the distance between the foundations is 3.175 m) should not be less than 1.5 m underground and 2.5 cm above the ground. It is necessary to pour a larger foundation under the support frame: this is where the maximum load will be placed. Its length will be 2.4 m and width 50 cm. A small plinth, 50 cm long and 30 cm wide, should be poured under the side frame. A detailed layout of the support sections will allow both the pouring and installation of the frames to be carried out accurately and without errors.

Pouring the foundation

So, how to make sliding gates yourself and what materials are needed for proper installation of supports? Concrete grade M200 or higher is used to fill the foundation. Before filling the trenches, it is necessary to carry out reinforcement with rods with a diameter of 12 mm. The resulting base is left to stand for a week.

Sliding gate assembly instructions

Work is carried out in accordance with the instructions supplied with the set of elements. The description below will also be useful to the performer. The given algorithm will allow you to carry out work faster and more accurately and prepare a durable structure:

M8 bolts connect the corner frame and the sliding door.

Plastic plugs are installed on the holes on the frame and gate.

A guide rail is attached to the bottom of the sliding blade.

Along the junction of the tire and the door leaf, a C-profile is screwed onto the inside of the gate using roofing screws.

Kits consisting of embedded plates, screws, and double-sided nuts are installed in the C-shaped profile (detailed assembly of the kit is shown in the video).

A rack is attached to the double-sided nuts (according to the factory holes).

It is important to consider the distance between adjacent slats: it should be no more than 1-2 mm. Once the elements are correctly positioned, you can tightly clamp the double-sided nut, which will securely fix the components.

Correct installation of sliding gates on rollers also involves tightening the bolts that secure the rack to the fasteners on the profile. Detailed drawings and photos indicated in the instructions will allow you to verify the accuracy of execution.

On the prepared foundations it is necessary to install the support and side frames at a level. To do this, you need to mark and then prepare the holes.

There should be no differences between the bases. Fastening is done using M12 wedge anchors. Adjust the posts strictly vertically.

Next, all other components for sliding gates are assembled and secured: fasteners for rollers, rollers. Before installing them, you will need to accurately mark the free area and eliminate differences in the plane or slight tilts of the frames. The distance from the support frame to the first fastener is 10 cm. And the distance between adjacent fasteners is 1.335 m.

After preparing the fasteners, the roller bearings are installed.

The rollers are mounted into the support frame using a small tire.

Making retractable gates with your own hands is somewhat more complicated and more expensive than traditional swing gates, but the ease of use of such a design overcomes all temporary difficulties. Sliding gates do not require free space in front of them to open, do not limit the opening in height, are insensitive to weather conditions and are easy to automate.

Tools and materials

To manufacture and install retractable gates, you need to stock up on everything you need.

List of tools:

• shovels;
• roulette;
• cord;
• level;
• square;
• marker;
• Bulgarian;
• welding machine;
• drill;
• brushes

List of materials:

• reinforcing bars with a diameter of 12-16 mm;
• knitting wire;
• channel with neck 140-160 mm;
• concrete B20;
• profile pipe 60x30x2 mm;
• profile pipe 40x20x2 mm;
• welding electrodes 2.5-3 mm;
• primer for metal;
• enamel;
• solvent;
• wall corrugated sheeting;
• roofing screws;
• fittings for sliding gates.

To ensure compatibility of elements, it is advisable to purchase fittings as a set in one standard size; the elements are selected according to their load-bearing capacity depending on the width of the opening.

• In general, you will need:
• lower roller bearings (2 pcs.);
• adjustment pads (2 pcs.);
• guide;
• upper roller support;
• lower and upper catchers;
• end roller;

guide plug.

The work will be simplified if you use a laser plane builder, but you can do without it.

Marking and foundation design

1. If the gate opening is unknown in advance and can be chosen, it is worth starting from the following considerations:
2. The width of the truck including mirrors does not exceed 2.75 m.

When straight entry is not possible and maneuvering is required, the width must be increased.

Therefore, for direct passage of any vehicle, an opening width of 3 m is sufficient. For passage with a turn, the opening width can be increased to 4 m. A larger width is less advantageous in terms of materials. This is due to the fact that the profile pipe is sold in 6 m pieces, and for fitting kits the opening width of 4 m is the limit.

Larger sizes require a more durable and expensive set of accessories. In addition, it will be difficult to make wider gates with your own hands. If a gate is placed next to the gate, it should not be on the side where it moves away.

The advantage of sliding gates is that there are no elements in the opening in the open position. But to attach the sash you have to use a protruding console. Therefore, to roll back the gate, a space is required that is 1.5 times the width of the opening. The wide canvas with cantilever is kept from tipping over by a massive counterweight foundation.

The foundation is placed on the side where the gate will slide. It is placed along the fence close to the edge of the opening and the limiting post. The width of the base is selected at 500 mm. The length should be half the width of the opening. The depth depends on the region. It cannot be less than the freezing depth for a given area. It is better to take a depth with a margin of 20-30 cm.

An embed the full length of the foundation is prepared from a section of channel and reinforcing bars. The channel will be placed in the concrete with the shelves down. Vertical rods are welded to the inner surface of the shelves. They are connected to each other through 30-40 cm with additional scraps of reinforcement.

It is located on the side of the main support platform closer to the opening. A hole is made in the cutting of the channel for the passage of communications. The wires are laid inside the foundation in steel pipes.

The resulting mortgage must be aligned relative to the axis of movement of the gate and the lower end of the leaf. The position of the axis can be determined by stretching a cord along the opening. It is pulled from the supporting pillars at a distance equal to half the width of the mortgage, at the height of the lower edge of the sash. The height must be chosen so that animals cannot enter the territory, but the formation of ice in winter does not prevent opening.

The mortgage should be located along the axis of the cord, but below it. The required gap can be measured by screwing the roller support to the adjustment platform and setting it to the middle height position. Then the distance from the roller to the supporting surface of the adjustment pad will be the distance from the cord to the embedment mark.

The mortgage is secured in the pit. If its upper plane is higher than the ground level, you will have to extend the edges of the pit with formwork. Concrete is poured flush with the mortgage.

The material of the posts is important for installing the top support and catchers. They are simply welded to metal ones or installed on a bolted connection. In the case of brick or concrete pillars, you have to install mortgages or take them into a cage.

An option is also used when sliding gates are installed together with additional steel supports made of large-section profile pipe (100x100 mm). Then one pillar is concreted together with the foundation, and a personal foundation is made for the second.

Making the sash

To make a gate leaf with your own hands, you need to have welding skills. The design is openwork and can easily move when welding. It is advisable to prepare a site with control points set exactly at the same mark in strategic places. It is better to be able to fix the workpiece to these points.

The gate console is usually made in the form of a right triangle, which continues the main rectangular part. This scheme allows you to save some materials and lighten the design. The canvas itself is made 400 mm wider than the opening. The total length with the console is 1.5 times the width of the opening.

The outer part of the structure’s perimeter is made from a 60x30x2 mm profile pipe, the inner part is made from a 40x20x2 mm pipe. The more massive element is located flat in the section, the smaller one - vertically.

Jib beams are welded inside the structure from a 40x20x2 mm pipe, forming a rigid frame similar to a truss. A guide for roller bearings is welded to the bottom end.

The longitudinal connection of the elements is made with an intermittent seam in increments of 20 cm. You need to cook from the middle to the edges, alternately on one side and the other. This will minimize thermal distortion.

The metal is cleaned of oxides, primed in two layers and painted with enamel paints.

Installation and adjustment of the structure

Adjustment pads are placed on the foundation along the very edges of the mortgage and along the axis of the cord. In this position they are caught by welding at several points. The support rollers are screwed to the adjustment pads in the middle position. The lattice structure must be pushed through one of the free ends onto the rollers.

Using the adjustment pads, the sash guide is aligned to the horizon at the desired height and parallel to the plane of the opening. The upper support roller is placed on the gate and its position is marked on the pillar closest to the foundation. After checking that the gate is installed correctly, the leaf is removed. The support platforms are scalded and the upper support is mounted.

Using the upper support roller, the sash is aligned in a vertical plane. The location of the catchers is determined after covering the canvas with corrugated sheets, when it acquires its final mass. The corrugated sheet is attached using a drill with roofing screws. The sheathing looks neater if you start it from the edge farthest from the support. A whole sheet appears in plain sight.

An end roller and a plug are installed at the ends of the guide. The end roller must be attached with special care. It bears a significant part of the load when the gate is closed. The lower catcher is pressed tightly against the end roller by hand and welded in this position. The second catcher is fixed in the upper corner.

A properly made gate rolls easily in any direction. When placing the sash in one of the intermediate positions, it should not move under its own weight. The wind load is completely transferred to the supports and catchers, which allows the gate to serve for a long time and require no maintenance.

In the life of every person who owns a cottage or country house, it has become traditional to manufacture all the structures themselves, in particular if you can save a fair amount in this matter. Entrance gates are no exception. Having sufficient experience working with metal products, skills in using special equipment and an understanding of the principles of operation, you can easily figure out how to make sliding gates with your own hands.

For the improvement of buildings, the use of sliding (sliding) gates is becoming increasingly popular. According to the principle of operation, the named design is presented in two types: manual and automatic.

There is no doubt that the defining advantage of these products is their excellent aesthetic appearance. In addition, they look impressive and modern, and also do an excellent job of saving space in a personal plot, which in most cases is to the taste of owners of small plots of land. The defining advantages of sliding gates are:

• high level of security (it is more difficult to open such gates to a third party than swing gates);
• significant indicators of strength, rigidity and load-bearing capacity;
• small opening area;
• no height restrictions;
• saving time in winter on clearing snow;
• wind resistance.

However, when considering this or that type of gate, one should not forget about its disadvantages. The sliding type is accompanied by the following disadvantages:

• overpriced;
• special foundation;
• bulkiness and heavy weight of the structure compared to the swing type.

When choosing the type of gate, do not rush to make a decision before consulting with a professional, in case of confusion. In most cases, usage restrictions can be easily circumvented based on experience and creative solutions.

The process of sliding gate movement occurs along the fence. In the closed position, the canvas completely covers the entrance without gaps or cracks. The composition of the structure is presented in the following types:

• single-leaf - having a support as an additional foundation, the sash moves to one side along the channel, and no upper constriction is required - ideal for a leaf with a height of no more than 2 m;
• double-leaf - based on two prepared platforms, two gate leaves simultaneously move in opposite directions, an upper roller beam is required - an excellent way to evenly distribute the load for heavy structures with a height of more than 2 m.

The lining of the doors can be made of any material, depending on the tastes, preferences and financial capabilities of the owner. However, the most used raw material is corrugated board.

In order to make sliding gates yourself, you will need to prepare the necessary tools, materials and draw up a rough sketch of the future design.

Required tools and consumables:

• clamps;
• channel beam with a width from 16 to 20 cm;
• fittings with a diameter from 10 to 14 mm;
• Bulgarian.

Before carrying out work on the construction of the gate, you will need to establish dimensions and draw up accurate drawings. The specific weight of the gate and the choice of necessary fittings depend on the dimensions of the future design. The width of the entrance opening should provide free access for vehicles. There are often cases when it is necessary to install five-meter gates (in width) for the entry of passenger cars, since the narrow streets of holiday villages are not always able to provide an optimal turn for the car.

To correctly calculate the required gate width, it would be a good idea to first mark the intended driveway with pegs and try to drive along it into the yard. Depending on the obtained number, the required distance for rolling back the gate is calculated. In the case of sliding gates, the latter indicator must exceed the entrance opening twice (at least a meter in each direction).

Having completed the preparatory procedures, we proceed to installing the support pillars. As a basis for these structural elements, you can choose any available materials, from wooden beams to brickwork. The main condition is that the support must be in the ground at a depth of at least 1.2 m. Otherwise, under the weight of the erected gate, the verticals may break, especially during seasonal ground movement, which will lead to deformation of the gate and rapid failure of components.

We dig two holes with the required depths and install supports according to the building level, after which we pour concrete.

The time for complete hardening of concrete is at least 7 days in dry weather.

The first priority is welding meter-long reinforcement rods to the channel. Next, we dig a hole 40–50 cm wide, at least 1.2 m deep and a length equal to the length of the gate opening. Then we install two channel beams with their “legs” down, check the level again and concrete the products.

The channel should be located flush with the asphalt. Since a channel with welded reinforcement legs at a trench depth of 1.2 m may not coincide with the upper edge of the soil, it would be useful to pour crushed stone, a small fraction, for example, 5x20, onto the bottom of the trench.

If everything is done correctly, then the end result should be a flat metal platform, which we will subsequently equip with sliding carts.

Exactly the same as when curing the foundation for supports, you should let the foundation stand for at least 1 week.

While the completed concrete bases are drying, we proceed to the manufacture of frames. To do this you will need to assemble two identical frames. The most commonly used and easiest to install material is profile pipe 60×40 or 50×50 mm. Having decided on the dimensions, we cut the required amount of profile, clean and degrease the surfaces of the elements.

Having finished with the described procedures, we proceed to welding. Based on the prepared drawings, we fasten all the prepared pipe sections together, forming an outer frame.

During the work, you should first prepare the material for one of the gates, make a full-fledged frame and subsequently use it as a template for the second half. In addition, when working with metal products, do not forget to use special eye and skin protection.

We install an internal frame into the resulting structure, which will not only give the necessary rigidity to the gate, but will also become the basis for fastening the facing materials. For this, it is advisable to use the same profile pipes, but with dimensions from 20x20 to 20x40 mm, which should be pinched pointwise to the main frame. Then we weld guides to the bottom beam of each frame. Next, we clean the welded areas using an angle grinder or grinder, and re-process the cleaned areas.

All welding work must be carried out in a checkerboard pattern, otherwise the resulting frame may move or twist due to overheating.

After making sure that the prepared frames are dry, we proceed to installing the gate cladding. The most used material for these purposes is corrugated board. The sheets are fastened by screwing in metal screws with a special drill or by installing rivets.

On each channel we place rollers for each sliding gate and move them as far apart as possible in opposite directions. Next, we place guide frames on them and set them to the building level. After welding, we point-attach the roller carts to the channel beam.

After making sure that there are no distortions, we install the upper retaining and end rollers. We move on to checking the operation of the resulting gate and installing small fittings.

If you are planning to install automation on an erected structure, then after purchasing the kits, carefully study the attached instructions. Accurate adherence to the technical documentation will easily allow you to equip the gate with the desired equipment.

It would be useful to install an upper safety beam or channel on the support posts, repeating all the operations described above with the lower fastenings. It is best to fix the catchers directly on the gate leaves, so that when the leaves are closed, they interlock, eliminating damage and forming a single structure.

Making the presented structure with your own hands at a dacha or cottage will significantly reduce waste when constructing an entrance element. The installation process is simple, but requires strict adherence to the instructions provided, drawing up a sketch and clear control over the verticality and horizontality of each component element. Having compiled and calculated the required amount of material, seek advice and assess the correctness of the actions taken by specialists to make sure of your calculation.

Video

Practical tips on how to make sliding gates without outside help:

Schemes and drawings

The diagrams we offer will help you understand the design features of sliding gates:

In our country, sliding gates gained great popularity back in Soviet times, when such an opening system was installed in most enterprises. Now such gates are installed on personal plots and fences of cottage villages. Sliding gates have gained great popularity due to their ergonomic design, which saves space.

Anyone can make sliding gates for their property. This will require some time investment on your part, but a gate made by yourself will cost less than one ordered from a specialized company.

To understand how sliding gates are designed, it is enough to study their drawing. There are no complex or clever elements in such a system. Everything is simple and reliable.

Sliding gates are installed inside a welded frame into which the open gate leaf goes. The frame is equipped with closed roller bearings, which makes it easier to open and close the gate. At the same time, the roller carriages, being inside the frame, are reliably protected from precipitation and external influences, which allows you to reduce maintenance to a minimum (lubrication of bearings only when installing the gate) and increase the service life to an average of 12 years.

Any material can be used to finish the gate - chipboard, lining, metal siding, solid steel sheet or any other.

It depends on your wishes and financial capabilities whether the gate will be moved manually or using automatic systems. It is also worth deciding for what purposes the gate will be used: as a main entrance, a fire (evacuation) exit, or as a spare in case of malfunctions of the main gate. All this determines the size, appearance and cost of the gate installation work.

Gate installation

Installation of future gate frame

The first step in the installation process is to install the opening of the future gate. To do this, pillars made of two steel pipes, bricks or wooden beams are installed. The posts should go at least a meter into the ground; it is to this depth that the soil freezes in winter. The pillars are installed in a hole at this depth, leveled and filled with cement mortar.

It takes about a week for the solution to dry completely.

Foundation for the gate itself

A foundation is also required to install the frame. To make it, we take a channel with a width of 20 mm and reinforcement with a diameter of 15 mm. The reinforcement is cut into meter-long pieces and welded vertically to the channel. The result should be a structure similar to scaffolding.

We dig a hole under the foundation, the length of which is equal to half the width of the gate opening. The width of the pit is 40 cm, the depth is at least a meter.

A structure made of reinforcement and channel is placed in the pit. It should be noted that the level of the channel relative to the ground level determines the width of the gap between the door leaf and the road. After placing the foundation frame, the hole is filled with cement mortar and allowed to harden.

If you did everything correctly, you will have a flat metal platform on which the gate guides will subsequently be installed.

Support frame

To make the gate frame we will need metal pipes with a diameter of 30 to 60 mm. pipes must be cleaned of rust using a grinder or grinder, degreased and primed.

After the processing of the pipes is completed, we begin welding the frame. A sheathing of smaller diameter pipes (for example, 20mm) is attached to the finished pipe frame, which will become the basis for the sheathing. The casing is attached to the door leaf using self-tapping screws or rivets.

The location of the sheathing inside the frame is determined by how you want to sheath the gate. With one-sided sheathing, the sheathing is located on the edge of the frame, with double-sided sheathing - in the center.

When carrying out welding work, make welds in increments of 25 cm. This is the optimal distance for maximum structural strength.

After completing the welding work, all seams are compared with a grinder, and the door leaf is re-primed and painted. When the paint has dried, you can begin sheathing the canvas with the selected material.

Installation of the gate itself begins with fitting the guides. Set the lower rollers, bearings and guides to the open position. Pay attention to the position of the first and last rollers; there should still be free space between them and the edge of the door leaf.

Place the top gate guide on the rollers and level the rollers. After this, place the gate frame on the rollers and level everything again. If the frame is level, weld the roller platforms to the foundation and weld the upper and lower catchers.

The top guide is attached to the previously installed posts, and the rollers are attached to it. If the posts are made of metal, you will not have any problems with welding. If the pillars are brick or wooden, use anchors or embedded reinforcement.

The lower rollers, as already mentioned, are welded with their platforms directly to the foundation, and the upper rollers are attached to the guide using bolts or welding. The version with bolts allows you to replace the rollers if necessary, but welded joints will have to be cut and welded again.

Installation of upper rollers from lateral rolling

Instead of a guide beam, you can make several vertical guide rollers on top. They are mounted on a U-shaped profile with bolts. Such rollers will not allow the door leaf to swing and will act as a guide beam. The advantage of such a system is that there is no obstacle to the passage of tall cars in the gate opening.

At the lower edge of the foundation, a lower catcher should be welded into which the door leaf will fit. Thus, an additional point of support is created, allowing the rollers to be relieved of the load.

Experience shows that making sliding gates on your own can significantly save money. Making the gates in-house would cost twice as much. In addition, parts and structural elements are not a scarce commodity. If the installation technology is followed correctly, your homemade gate will last you much longer than the branded one.

Video - installation of sliding gates

Sliding (sliding, sliding) gates are a more technologically advanced alternative to swing gates. Making gates with a sliding mechanism is more difficult than swinging ones, but ease of use and appearance will indicate a modern private home.

Before you figure out how to make sliding gates from corrugated sheets, you need to consider what types of devices there are and trace the evolution of their formation.

Types and types of sliding gates

Design and design features of mechanisms and installation methods.

By opening method:

• sliding gates- consist of two doors that slide in opposite directions. Visually similar to swing gates and combine the advantages of swing and sliding gates;

• sliding gates(self-supporting) - consist of one canvas (rarely two) that slides off in one direction.

The main advantage of sliding gates is that they do not require a lot of free space for operation. Among the advantages are the ability to connect automation, a more modern look, and ease of sliding even in the presence of snow.

By degree of mechanization:

• manual rollback(mechanical gate opening). Retracting the sliding gate leaf is absolutely easy. When planning to make a sliding gate with your own hands, many people prefer manually sliding the gate;

• automatic rollback. When designing and installing gates, the need for electrical supply and the installation of additional mechanisms are taken into account. Automation for sliding gates consists of: a remote control, an electric drive, an electric cable, photocells, and a signal lamp.

By type of guides:

• hanging type. In this case, the guide is installed on top, which limits the height of the gate;

• console type. For sliding gates of this type, a guide frame is installed at the bottom of the structure.

The simplest ones are gates mounted on a rail (Fig. on the left). The option is simple, but not very convenient, because... The bottom guide requires constant care. Otherwise, debris caught in the slide will cause the rollers to jump off and, over time, damage the mechanism. A more modern version of the device is sliding gates with a floating rail (Fig. on the right).

It is how to make sliding gates from corrugated sheets on floating rails that will be discussed in the article.

Do-it-yourself sliding gates made of corrugated sheets

Step-by-step instructions for making sliding gates for a summer house or a private home.

Stage 1 - project of sliding gates made of corrugated sheets

The design of sliding gates is complex, which means visualization is necessary, i.e. you need to make a sketch or drawing.

Sketch of sliding gates made of corrugated sheets

A sketch is a picture showing the appearance of the gate, indicating the main elements, but without drawing dimensions. Design begins with a sketch drawing.

Diagram of sliding gates made of corrugated sheets

A schematic drawing is something between a sketch and a drawing, i.e. a picture that gives an idea of ​​the gate and allows you to apply dimensions. The disadvantage of the scheme is that the proportions are not maintained. However, for those who do not have drawing skills, the sliding gate diagram will be a reliable help.

Drawing of sliding gates made of corrugated sheets

The drawing must be provided by construction teams when ordering a turnkey installation service. A drawing is a document that records the key parameters of the future gate: the width of the opening, the width of the gate and counterweight, the dimensions and location of the gate, the number of leaves, the specifics of opening, additional elements, as well as all dimensions.

Important. A wicket made of corrugated sheets mounted into the gate leaf is thought out at the project development stage.

Stage 2 - calculation of sliding gates made of corrugated sheets

For the normal functioning of sliding gates, you need to correctly calculate the parameters of their main elements:

Gate weight

The mass of sliding gates has a direct impact on all load-bearing elements. The total mass consists of the weight of the frame, the counterweight (shank), the weight of the skin, and the weight of decorative elements. If you plan to manufacture a gate from corrugated sheets with an internal wicket, the weight of the frame and the wicket material are taken into account. The weight of locks and automation, although not so significant, should not be neglected in the calculations.

The weight of the gate leaf can be reduced by installing two leaves. Those. Instead of sliding gates, make sliding gates.

For example, the weight of a 4-meter gate, welded from a pipe with a cross-section of 60x20, covered with corrugated sheets on one side, is about 200 kg.

Sliding gate posts

A large cross-section metal pipe is suitable for support pillars.

Length of console (guide rails or beams)

The length is determined by the width of the opening plus ½ the length of the counterweight (shank). It is not recommended to reduce this parameter, because The recoil mechanism will quickly wear out. With a door width of 4,000 mm. The length of the console will be 6,000 mm. Thus, the side of the fence on which the gate leaf will extend must be longer than 6,000 mm.

If the fence is shorter, you should make two gate leaves with two counterweights and automation kits. This increases the cost of the sliding gate, but will allow it to “fit” into the given dimensions (the length of the fence next to the gate). Otherwise you need to install .

A counterweight of ¼ of the door width is only possible when using console roller guides.

Advice. If the entrance to the yard is located on a narrow street, it is advisable to make the opening and gate wider to provide free space for maneuver.

The influence of the weight of sliding gates on the parameters of the guide rail (console)

Accessories

The heavier the gate, the stronger the fittings need to be purchased. This will avoid its deformation and skewing of the gate during operation.

Automation

The more massive the sash leaf, the more powerful the automation needs to be. In turn, automation for sliding gates is selected taking into account the power reserve. Therefore, when purchasing, you need to add 100 kg to the weight of the gate.

The influence of the weight of sliding gates on the parameters of the electric drive (power)

Stage 3 - materials and tools

We provide data on the amount of building material for the manufacture of sliding gates from corrugated sheets measuring 4,000 x 2,000 mm.

Estimate for the consumption of materials and funds for the installation of sliding gates

Material	Quantity	Price
Profiled sheeting*	4 sheets of 2 m.p. about 10 sq.m.	150-350 rub. per sq.m.
Pipe 100x100, 4 mm thick.	2	560 rub/m.p.
Pipe 60x30, 2 mm thick.	2 m.p. - 2 pcs. 3.5 m.p. - 1 PC. 4 m.p. - 1 PC. 6 m.p. - 1 PC.	153 rub/m.p.
Pipe 60x20, thickness 2 mm.	Depending on the location of the reinforcing jumpers	147 rub/m.p.
Metal sheet, 2 mm. To strengthen the frame. Installed in case of strong wind load.	Headscarves - 4 pcs. 150	764.80 rub/sq.m.
For arranging a cover strip 150x150	2 pcs.
Channel, 2-3 m long. For installation on a foundation under a shank	1 PC.	300 rub/m.p.
Self-tapping screws/rivets	80 pcs./130 pcs.	RUB 1.25/piece 0.3 RUR/piece
Paint for corrugated sheets	1 PC.	240 rub./1 kg.
Anticorrosive primer: GF-021 LAKRA Phosphosoil Zinconol	1 PC.	140 rub./kg. 257 rub./kg. 463 rub./kg.
Frame paint	1 PC.
Cement M 400	1 PC.	200 rub./50 kg.
Sand		85 rub./50 kg.
Fittings, Ø 12	20 m.p.	41 rub./m.p.
Pens	Needed if a drive is not used
Hidden hinges
Locks
Sliding gate mechanism	1 PC. for sliding 2 pcs. for sliding gates
Roltek MICRO	Opening width 3,000 Sash weight up to 350 kg.	7530 rub.
Alutech	Opening width 4,000 Sash weight up to 450 kg.	150
Came	Opening width 4,500 Sash weight up to 700 kg.	29330 rub.
Came	Opening width 4,500 Sash weight up to 800 kg.	33980 rub.
Automation Alutech	1 PC. for sliding 2 pcs. for sliding	25,000 rub.

* Profiled sheeting. The height is equal to the height of the sash, the width depends on the type. For wall corrugated sheets, the working width ranges from 1000 to 1190 mm. For a gate 4 m wide, you will need 4 sheets 2 m high. It is preferable to take a painted profiled sheet. Its service life is much longer and its appearance is more beautiful.

Let us separately dwell on what elements the sliding gate mechanism includes. In general, these are fittings and automation.

Sliding gate fittings are a set (set) of elements that ensure the functioning of the gate leaf.

Beam for sliding gates (console or guide rail)

Sold in sizes 6, 7, 8 m.p. The guide beam is welded to the frame pipe from below. Inside the console there are guide rollers that are responsible for the movement of the gate leaf.

Advice. When buying a console, check the warranty and pay attention to the quality of the metal, its thickness, and geometry. Otherwise, the rail will bend and the gate leaf will jam. Craftsmen warn that if there is a square in the cross-section of a cantilever beam for sliding gates, it is a fake. The factory console has a complex geometric shape.

Rollers for sliding gates (roller carriages)

Installed at the top and bottom of the frame. The upper roller holds the sash in a horizontal position and prevents the leaf from swinging. Lower support - mounted at the end of the console (beam). Support rollers are responsible for holding the sash in the closed position. And also for preventing it from sagging and spontaneous opening. The rollers are rigidly fixed to the foundation.

Advice. Rollers with a good quality plastic shell are more durable. In addition, they dampen the noise when the gate moves and protect the roller base from damage.

High-quality material for rollers is considered to be indelible plastic or chrome vanadium steel. But the quality is largely influenced by the manufacturer.

Catcher for sliding gates (upper and lower catcher)

Catchers accept the gate frame when closing. They are also designed to keep the sash from sagging.

Plugs for guide beam

Plastic plugs are installed at opposite ends of the console.

Automation for sliding gates

Selected based on the technical characteristics specified by the manufacturer. Includes a drive, which can be of several types:

• belt drive- relatively cheap, but the belt wears out quickly and can burst due to temperature changes;

• chain drive- a little more expensive, but the chain is prone to sagging and requires maintenance;

• gear drive- the most reliable. The rack ensures that the gate will not be opened from the outside, but at the same time, it will not open if the power goes out. Automation with a gear drive can be installed on gates with a wicket made of corrugated sheets.

Advice. Craftsmen recommend purchasing a sliding gate mechanism as a kit. This makes it easier to select the equipment and take into account its load-bearing capacity. Good reviews about such manufacturers: CAME (Italy), Rolling-Center (Italy), DOORHAN (Russia), ROLTEK (Russia).

Stage 4 - installation of sliding gates made of corrugated sheets

Do-it-yourself installation of sliding (sliding) gates without automation

Gate foundation

The foundation is poured under the shank.

A 200 mm channel is laid close to the post, and a 160 mm channel is laid at a distance of 50 mm from the support post.

Installation of mortgages in pillars is carried out “flush” with the brickwork (cladding of the support pillars).

How to make a foundation for sliding gates

To properly fill the base, you need to perform a number of actions:

• prepare the soil (remove the top layer of soil);

• dig a trench. The depth and width are 500 mm, the length of the recess is equal to ½ the width of the gate opening. For a sash with a width of 4 m.p. you need a trench 2 meters long;

• drill two holes that are intended for installing support pillars. The drilling depth is 1/3 of the pipe length, usually 1300-500 mm. The width of the hole depends on the reinforcement. It is recommended that the diameter of the hole be 2.5 times the diameter/section of the pipe. The result of the excavation work will be a U-shaped depression;

• make a sand-crushed stone cushion in the recesses (at the bottom of the post holes). Backfill height 50-100 mm;

• pour concrete mortar;

• along the bottom of the trench (between the support pillars) arrange a sand and crushed stone cushion;
• tie and lay reinforcement;

• concreted.

There is a second option for installing a foundation for sliding gates - using a channel. This is the so-called foundation mortgage.

The method also involves digging a trench and vertical holes. But in this case, in addition to the support pillars, reinforcement is placed in the holes, welded to a channel that will serve as a foundation, and the entire structure is concreted on top.

Advice.
The level of pouring concrete must coincide with the level of the channel. Otherwise, water will accumulate in this place. Material prepared for the website www.site

While the concrete hardens, you can begin making the frame.

Installation of sliding gates - frame (leaf frame)

The configuration of the frame is a one-sided trapezoid.

How to weld a frame (frame) for sliding gates

• cut metal blanks for welding the sliding gate frame. Please note that workpieces forming a right angle are welded at an angle of 45°. Perpendicular - at an angle of 90°. This means that they need to be cut accordingly.

  Advice. For beginners who do not have much experience in welding, craftsmen advise cutting at an angle only those workpieces that will be located on top of the frame. This will prevent water from entering the frame frame. The lower ones can be welded at right angles.

• clean iron workpieces from rust, dirt, etc.;

• weld all the elements together according to the drawing. In this case, you need to make sure that the welding is carried out “poke”, and not using a continuous weld (this can lead to damage to the structure). In addition, with the spot welding method, it is easier to dismantle the frame for repair or reconstruction (“points” are cut off with a grinder).

  Only after there is no doubt about the accuracy of the dimensions and geometry of the structure can final welding be performed with a continuous seam;

• workpieces and welding areas are ground;

• anti-corrosion primer treatment.

If necessary, the frame is additionally (at the welding stage) reinforced with longitudinal/perpendicular cross members or a gusset - a steel sheet welded at the corners of the structure.

Advice. Strengthening the triangle that is formed on one side of the frame (shank) occurs by installing a stiffener so that the right angle is divided in half.

Installation of a beam for sliding gates

The cantilever (guide) beam is welded to the bottom of the frame. Rubber plugs are installed on its edges. Without plugs, debris will get into the console, which will make it difficult for the sash to move along the guide rollers.

Installation of fittings for sliding gates

• a cover plate is attached to the support post - a corner 150x150 mm or a channel;
• catchers (upper and lower) are attached to the strip;
• Rollers (holding carriages) are mounted on the foundation embedded (installed channel). The rollers are installed as far apart from each other as possible;
• a console is put on the carriage;
• catchers are finally adjusted;
• installation of fittings and/or automation (drive) is carried out.

Installation of corrugated sheets

Sheathing the gates with corrugated sheets is carried out in accordance with the installation technology.