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Household heating and heating and cooking appliances using solid fuel (fireplaces, stoves, stoves) are bulky, and their shape is completely determined by the technical features of the design. That's why, In order to fit a fireplace or stove into the interior, their external decorative finishing takes on special importance. The material in this article is intended to help both those who intend to finish their stove or fireplace on their own, as well as those who want to order their finishing and get the job done competently.

1. This publication discusses one of the ways to improve the appearance of stoves and fireplaces - cladding, i.e. surface finishing. It has to work under rather specific conditions, so the cladding of household heating and cooking appliances must satisfy the following requirements:
2. Do not under any circumstances increase the fire hazard of the premises;
3. Be durable, because any repair of a stove or fireplace is complex, expensive and can only be properly carried out outside the heating season;
4. Stay firmly on the base surface, withstanding as many (ideally infinitely large) thermal cycles (TC) of heating and cooling as possible;
5. The facing of the fireplace should aesthetically create a transition from its purely functional form to the interior of any style;
6. Do not undergo noticeable physicochemical changes under the influence of TCs;
7. Do not release harmful and/or dangerous substances into the environment and do not create other hazardous factors;
8. Be hygienic, withstand intensive care using cleaning products;
9. Furnace lining, in addition, should not worsen its thermal and operational parameters, primarily efficiency, heat capacity, nature and duration of heat transfer. On the contrary, it is desirable that the external decoration of the stove improves them;
10. Also, the lining of stoves and fireplaces should not disturb their structure (body, structure). As a result of finishing work, the formation of pockets of thermal and mechanical stress, cracks and fistulas, through which flue gases can leak into the room or, conversely, cold outside air into places where it is not needed, must be excluded;
11. At the same time, the lining of the stove or fireplace should not be very heavy, because Heating devices themselves place a lot of stress on building structures.

To fulfill point 2, it is necessary to harmonize the coefficients of thermal expansion (TCR) of the materials of the stove/fireplace structure and cladding, but achieving equality of their TCR would be too difficult and expensive. Typically, a binder base is introduced into the cladding structure, which firmly adheres to both the body of the stove and the finishing material itself. The binder is selected with a TCR that is intermediate between both, and the TCR of the facing is such that no mechanical stresses arise in the entire facing pie at the maximum amplitude of the TC, causing fatigue of the materials or exceeding their plasticity limits.

Note: hence the important conclusion - improperly executed cladding can damage the structure of the stove/fireplace not only with metal fasteners, anchors, etc. It can simply “pull” the building material until it cracks. Let's keep this in mind.

Condition of point 3 for fireplaces is determined by the fact that they heat the room predominantly with thermal (infrared, IR) radiation from the mouth of the firebox, while the stove is essentially a massive heat accumulator. Modern fireplaces are mostly decorative; they are most often auxiliary heat sources. You can light the fireplace irregularly, little by little, and its emergency shutdown will not lead to a threatening situation. Due to these factors, the conditions of point 2 for stoves and fireplaces are significantly different: if the finishing of the stove needs to be counted on “thermal swings” of up to 500 degrees Celsius, then for a fireplace you can set the upper threshold of the TC at 150 degrees.

Item 8 can be implemented quite simply in principle - it is necessary that the heat capacity and thermal conductivity of the facing materials exceed the same parameters of the furnace structure. Technically, this task has also been worked out well over the centuries, and modern facing materials for heating devices are developed in accordance with these requirements. Everything stated below also takes them into account.

On the one hand, the external finishing of metal stoves is simpler, because... the metal is plastic, elastic, and the peeled lining can often be corrected while the device is moving. On the other hand, it is more difficult due to the large TCR of the metal and the high temperature of the furnace body. Therefore, metal stoves are most often painted with heat-resistant enamels; one, but significant exception will be discussed further; we will deal mainly with brick heating and cooking appliances. It is not easy to fulfill all the above conditions, but the stove business has existed and developed for millennia. Stove makers, like all high-class craftsmen, are sensible people, so as a rule they do not reject the achievements of modern technologies suitable for their work. Therefore, for amateurs, the choice of methods for covering a fireplace and/or stove with their own hands is quite wide, see fig. and the list below:

1. Plastering with simple or decorative plaster;
2. Facing brick finishing;
3. Tiling;
4. Finishing with clinker tiles;
5. Cladding with ceramic terracotta tiles;
6. Majolica cladding;
7. Cladding with natural stone;
8. Artificial stone finishing;
9. Cladding with marble and other ornamental minerals.

Tile and porcelain stoneware

Often fireplaces with stoves are lined with tiles and porcelain stoneware. The reason is the relative cheapness of materials, the simplicity and accessibility of the technology for their installation. But, generally speaking, tiles and porcelain stoneware are not the best facing materials for heating devices; they are difficult to match according to TKR in a given temperature range, and the values ​​of their heat capacity and thermal conductivity in this case are far from the required ones.

Calibrated kaolin tiles, white on the inside, can be used to decorate decorative fireplaces, installing them in the same way as terracotta tiles, see below. If the stove is finished with tiles, additional metal supporting elements are required, see for example. video below. But this is not entirely good - parts with a large TCR appear in the structure of the cladding, so the stove must have been previously heated many times.

Video: finishing the stove with tiles on homemade corners

Porcelain stoneware is suitable for cladding heating devices of the same kind using the same methods, but tiles from it must be taken of zero caliber. There are other publications about the properties of porcelain stoneware, but in this case it is important that the initial mass was minimally deformed during the firing process, which means that the TC will withstand its use at the site.

Traditional methods

The first 3 points and positions in Fig. and in the list above - traditional methods of facing fireplaces and stoves. The best of them, but the most expensive and complex, is finishing with tiles; it increases the efficiency of the stove by 15-17 percentage points. For example, if the initial efficiency of the stove is 60%, then after tiling it will reach 70%; For this reason, we will return to tiling later.

Finishing the furnace with dry-molded facing bricks gives an increase in efficiency of 7-9 percentage points. provided that it is carried out at the same time as the construction of the furnace, i.e. decorative brick cladding was included in its layout at the design stage. Otherwise, when lining an already standing fire (running) stove, an increase in efficiency is possible, as when lining with terracotta, up to 5 percentage points. The facing brick is then mounted on the fireplace/stove structure in the same way as stone (see below), but the labor-intensive procedure of its preliminary laying is much simplified.

When using a modern insulated fireplace insert with glass and a standard chimney for it, a small fireplace can be made entirely of face brick, pos. 1 in Fig. on right. Just not silicate, in Fig. just light! And a stove or stove-fireplace with a lining of red facing brick under a simple worker fits well aesthetically with majolica, pos. 2. However, these and other types of “brick” decor can be achieved more easily and cheaper by facing with terracotta and clinker. But before moving on to them, let's linger a little on the plaster.

Stove/fireplace plaster

Plastering a fireplace or stove allows you to achieve good aesthetics of the device in various types of interiors, see figure, but it is very labor-intensive even for simple white plaster. Decorative plasters, e.g. Venetian or polished stucco, you will have to leave it here altogether, this is a separate complex topic. In any case, the main obstacle when plastering a stove/fireplace is cutting the seams. If the appliance and masonry mortar in the joints are sintered into stone, preparing its surface for plaster becomes not only long, but exhausting, requiring extreme attention and experience so that a crack does not appear in the joint.

Next, the plaster mass needs lime. Even in the conditions of a fireplace shopping center, gypsum soon begins to lose water of crystallization, causing the plaster to dry out. The addition of vermiculite does not help, it only worsens heat transfer. In general, the procedure for plastering a fireplace or stove is as follows:

• The parts of the furnace structure to be lined are cleaned of the previous finish until there are no traces of it; the last residues are removed with a steel brush.
• The surface under the plaster is moistened by applying lightly moistened burlap or technical cloth for 1-1.5 hours.
• Masonry joints are cut to a depth of 9-10 mm with a narrow chisel for cutting out grooves - a cross-cutting tool - and light blows of a hammer.
• If the device was previously in use (heated), it will not be possible to cut the seams to the required depth right away: picking at dry clay mortar is unacceptable! In this case, wetting and cutting are repeated several times.
• The surface with cut seams is carefully brushed to remove dust and crumbs, then moistened with a plaster brush.
• Prepare a primary (starting) plaster solution with the consistency of medium-thick sour cream.
• The starting solution is used to fill the cut seams and the base surface to a thickness of 4-5 mm.
• After the primary plaster has dried, the same finishing solution or decorative plaster with the consistency of very thick sour cream or soft plasticine is prepared.
• The finishing plaster is applied in a layer of the same thickness.
• After the plaster has completely dried, a full cycle of putting the furnace into operation (starting up) is carried out: drying, a series of accelerating fireboxes, a test firebox.

Tile

Currently, traditional methods of finishing stoves are increasingly inferior to cladding with special tile materials; plaster is sometimes used to fill gaps in tiled surfaces. Tiling the stove has a number of advantages:

1. Stove tiles are safe and environmentally friendly.
2. There is a wide range of binding compounds (adhesives and primers, see below) for cladding heating appliances on sale, which makes the whole job no more difficult than laying tiles or porcelain tiles on the floor or walls.
3. The facing stove tiles and adhesives for them are fully consistent according to TKR with brickwork on clay mortar, which ensures the strength and durability of the finish.
4. The thermal parameters of a tiled stove either improve slightly or remain unchanged. Their slight deterioration occurs in some cases.
5. The cost of covering a fireplace/stove with tiles with your own hands and to order is an order of magnitude less than other types of decorative finishing.

Tiles for lining furnaces are made on the basis of annealed aluminosilicate (clay) ceramics; as a rule - dry or semi-dry molding. Ceramic tiles for cladding stoves are mainly used in the following types: clinker, terracotta and majolica. Available in flat, L-shaped profiles for corners and shaped (shaped) - curved, with rounded edges, complex shapes.

Clinker and terracotta

Clinker tiles are in some ways analogous to clinker bricks and paving slabs: they are highly burnt ceramic mass, i.e. fired at 1200 degrees and above. For decorative cladding, cheaper single-firing clinker is used; The molding of the plastic initial mass is carried out by extrusion, i.e. pushing through. The main advantage of clinker tiles is their low cost, approx. 1000 rub. for 1 sq. m, and a small TKR, which allows cladding with seams of 3-4 mm. Disadvantages: firstly, fragility, as a result of which clinker tiles with a thickness of 8 mm or more are required for lining stoves; fireplaces with their smaller TC can be lined with clinker with a thickness of 6 mm.

The most significant disadvantage of clinker tiles for cladding heating devices is their rather high thermal resistance; clinker cladding reduces the efficiency of the stove by 2-3 percentage points, which is why fireplaces are predominantly lined with clinker tiles. Decorative flaws - rough surface and uneven color - are not fatal, because... both can be introduced into the overall design, pos. 1 in Fig.

The mass for terracotta tiles is prepared on the basis of pottery clays with the addition of chamotte and mineral pigments, so the color of terracotta tiles for facing fireplaces/stoves is more varied, more even, and smooth color transitions can be obtained, pos. 2. Molding – semi-dry pressing, firing at 1000 degrees. The increased quality of the initial mass makes it possible to produce tiles up to 40x40 cm in size or more, from which it is possible to assemble figured compositions, pos. 3.

The specific gravity of terracotta tiles is less than that of clinker tiles, and they adhere very firmly to glue, which makes it possible to apply both design and structural solutions that are unattainable with other materials. For example, the cladding belt above the firebox of a compact corner fireplace (item 4) can only be made of terracotta; something else will fall out of there soon.

In addition to color, terracotta can be given a texture that imitates many types of brick and stone masonry, see next. rice. It also has a thermal advantage: lining the stove with terracotta increases its efficiency by 3-4 percentage points. Nothing comes for free, so terracotta approx. 25% more expensive than clinker of the same thickness. But this is compensated by the advantages of terracotta and the fact that tiles made from it for cladding under the same conditions can be 1-2 mm thinner.

Majolica

Majolica is a type of terracotta with a glazed surface, onto which a design can be applied by burning in, see fig. The surface of majolica can be smooth and embossed, glossy and matte. Matte majolica of a suitable color matches aesthetically well with wooden parts; This is the only way, apart from very expensive and complex tiles, to fit a fireplace into a portal decorated with wood, on the right in Fig. In everything except heating technology, majolica is equivalent to tiles, but in comparison with its artistic merits it costs divinely: without a pattern it is 28-29% more expensive than clinker, and decorated tiles are 32-35% more expensive. Majolica is placed on the surface to be coated in the same way as clinker and terracotta, see below.

How to tile

Cladding a fireplace or stove with glued tiles is carried out with the application of a backing made of reinforcing mesh, which distributes thermal and mechanical stress more or less evenly over the area of ​​the tiled surface. Without a grid, individual tiles will soon start to fall off. For this reason, the use of fiberglass mesh is undesirable; a steel mesh that conducts heat well is needed.

The total thickness of the mesh should not be greater than the thickness of the adhesive layer, i.e. 3-4 mm; therefore, the mesh is required from wire no thicker than 1.5-2 mm, with a mesh size from 30x30 to 50x50. If the glue instructions indicate a seam thickness of more than 5 mm, you need to use a chain-link mesh made of wire of the same thickness. You cannot use a wire mesh thicker than 2 mm; its own thermal deformations can damage the structure of the device.

The actual cladding is possible in 2 ways: with cutting of seams and 2-component glue or without cutting; in this case, the adhesive can be one-component (for more information about adhesives for stove facing tiles, see below). In both cases, the tile joints are left at 10-12 mm (thermal deformations!) and filled with a special mineral-based grout or silicone filler, also for stove work.

Cladding using the first method is very labor-intensive, because surface preparation is required and the seams are cut in the same way as for plaster, but the structure of the furnace is subject to minimal mechanical stress and there is no metal left in the brick that can cause cracking due to its thermal expansion. In this case:

According to the second method, the mesh is attached to the brickwork with steel hardware without cutting the seams. Here the problem is with dowels: steel dowels can cause cracks in the masonry due to the large difference in the TCR of metal and brick, plastic dowels will soften from heating and will no longer hold the mesh, and with it the entire cladding. For more information about facing fireplaces with terracotta tiles using glue on a mesh, see the video

Video: tiling the stove with terracotta tiles

You can add the following to the video:

1. The tiles should be glued with belts of no more than 3-4 rows (on the left in the figure below); The next belt is glued when the glue of the previous one has firmly set. Otherwise, the lower tiles may creep and peel off under the weight of the upper ones.
2. Grouting of joints begins when the glue sets, but does not gain full strength, otherwise either microcracks will appear in the joints after the grout has completely dried, or individual tiles may peel off.
3. Sunken seams are rubbed manually with mineral grout from a plaster falcon (in the center in the figure). The grout is smoothed with a rubber spatula; its residues smeared on the sides are immediately removed with a damp cloth. Dried grout only lends itself to abrasive, and it won’t even spare the tiles.
4. It is more convenient to fill convex seams using a mounting gun, on the right in Fig. This is the only possible way to fill seams with silicone, because... It sticks strongly to the tool for decorative cutting of seams.

Stone

Stone is used mainly for decorative fireplaces and, in some cases (see below), for sauna stoves. For lining heating and cooking stoves, its thermal conductivity is too low or, conversely, excessively high, and the increased heat capacity of some rocks/types of stone does not compensate for this.

The heat balance of a fairly efficient and economical stove must be maintained very precisely during the entire combustion period. If, for example, you line a stove with very beautiful labradorite, it will have to be heated for a long time before heat bubbles through the lining. As the stove warms up, its efficiency drops and a lot of fuel is consumed. The heat transfer of a heated stove will be greater than necessary to maintain a comfortable temperature, the difference between the internal and external temperatures is also greater than the calculated one, and the thermal energy of the excess fuel will somehow go outside without compensating for its excess consumption during heating.

Nevertheless, the decorative advantages of a stone fireplace surround make it very attractive, especially since in the case of a fireplace, the “evil” of a stone surround to some extent turns into good. A fireplace is a rather imperfect heating device; its heat balance is not so delicate; a lot of heat from the fireplace insert flies out into the chimney. Cladding a fireplace with stone allows you not only to decorate it, but also to slightly increase the thermal efficiency simply by increasing the thermal inertia of the structure.

Natural

Natural stone for cladding a fireplace must first of all satisfy point 5 from the list of requirements for cladding at the beginning. The fact is that many rocks contain water of crystallization and, when heated cyclically, tend to lose it quite quickly. As a result, the primary structure of the stone is disrupted, its adhesion to the binder is lost and its decorative qualities decrease.

Further, many of the stones suitable for aesthetics for facing are fragments and pellets of brecciated rocks and conglomerates, i.e. granular from components of different composition. For example, granite is a conglomerate of quartz, feldspar and mica. Individual components of a breccia or conglomerate are subject to metamorphic changes, during which the physical structure of the mineral changes, although its chemical composition remains the same. Cyclic temperature fluctuations accelerate metamorphization many times over, and its result is the same as with the loss of crystallization water.

Therefore, stones such as granite, diorite, gabbro, basalt, diabase, pegmatite, labradorite are not very suitable for cladding fireplaces and, especially, stoves. Already metamorphosed rocks will retain their appearance for a long time and will not suddenly collapse onto the coffee table: sandstones, shales, marble, or those requiring special conditions for metamorphization - shell rock and other sedimentary calcareous rocks, or not at all metamorphic, like tuff or travertine. Quartzite is not suitable, quartz metamorphoses. River pebbles are very good: their base, like sandstone, is feldspar, resistant to “thermal swings”. Marine may be from igneous breccia or conglomerate; it is, so to speak, conditionally suitable for lining a decorative fireplace that is lit from time to time.

Note: the shell rock in the furnace lining will last for 10-15 years, but it significantly increases the heat transfer time without significantly improving the efficiency,

More about granite

Indeed, the radiophon of granite is higher than that of sedimentary rocks. But in many places with an even higher natural radiophon, strong, healthy people live happily from generation to generation. And in any case, the radiophone from industrial emissions, as Mikhail Zhvanetsky put it, is natural, like a bull covering a sheep.

Gems for the fireplace

A rosette or insert into the fireplace lining made of colored ornamental (semi-precious) stone is quite affordable for a family with an average income. But - again point 5 comes out of the list of requirements - according to physical chemistry, only onyx and rhodonite (orlets, fauerlite) are suitable for this. They produce a warm range of colors, from deep cherry to light yellow.

Stone for sauna stove

Stone cladding of a sauna stove is acceptable, and in some cases simply necessary, but it requires a special stone - soapstone (talcomagnesite, steatite, wen, soapstone, stove stone, potting stone). It does not lather, but it looks silky smooth, with a greasy sheen and micro-texture, like a good soap. The color range of soapstone is from light gray to almost black, see fig. on right. Sometimes impurities give light shades of all the colors of the rainbow.

Soapstone does not contain water of crystallization and is completely not subject to metamorphism. The thermal conductivity of soapstone for stone is very high with moderate heat capacity, i.e. it almost does not reduce the heat transfer of the furnace and its efficiency. For the flow of thermal radiation, the soapstone layer is a translucent screen that smoothes the primary IR pulse from the metal furnace.

If your bathhouse turns out to be a bit harsh and has rather heavy steam, lining its stove with soapstone chlorite will significantly improve the bathhouse microclimate. The specific gravity of soapstone is small, and the stove is lined with it in the same way as with tiles, see above and below and adhesives for stove lining. Unfortunately, soapstone is not cheap: its industrial deposits are found only in Finland and Karelia.

Note: Soapstone chlorite is unsuitable for decorative cladding - its hardness on the Mohs scale is 1-5.5 and varies greatly within one sample, i.e. soapstone can be scratched with iron, and in some places with a fingernail.

How to glue stone

Cladding a fireplace/stove with stone differs from tiling primarily in its preliminary layout: the contour of the base surface is accurately marked on the floor with chalk or masking tape and stones are laid out on it, trying to ensure that there are as few as possible to be adjusted. Then each stone is marked, a sketch of the layout is made and a photograph is taken of it. The adjusted fragments are marked in a different color; they also have places for them on the sketch.

Next, for the heaviest stones, hooks are made from 1.5-2 wires, see fig. on right. If the lower surface of the stone, when installed in place, is rounded, it needs 2 hooks so that it does not tend to fall out to the side. It is advisable to place the stones on the hooks not randomly, but more or less regularly in increments of approx. 500 mm. The upper branches of the hooks are inserted into the grooves after applying the reinforcing mesh; Cladding the fireplace with stone is carried out only with cutting of the seams!

Place the stones on high-holding glue (see below) in rows, leaving spaces for adjustable fragments. They are adjusted to the location and glued in after the glue has completely hardened and gained strength, which takes 3-20 days, depending on what kind of glue is used.

Artificial

Artificial stone on a cement-sand base, which is used to pave garden paths and blind areas around the house, is not suitable for lining heating appliances - it will not withstand cyclic temperature fluctuations. For the same reason, artificial stone on gypsum is unsuitable for interior decoration of heated premises. Artificial stone with a lime or acrylic (polyester) binder is suitable for cladding fireplaces; in particular - artificial marble, see below. The specific gravity of these types of material is not higher than that of ceramics, therefore, facing the fireplace with artificial stone is carried out using the same technology as tiles, but with preliminary layout, as for natural stone. The laying out procedure is labor-intensive and tedious, therefore, if the stone is homemade, it is better to mold it to fit the surface to be tiled during the manufacturing process.

Marble

Cladding stoves and, especially, fireplaces with marble has been used for a long time: natural marble is quite heat-intensive and conducts heat well. Touch it with your hand: it is cold. In terms of thermal engineering, marble cladding is even better than steatite, plus, marble is durable, does not contain water of crystallization and is already completely metamorphosed. However, natural marble, especially colored marble, is expensive and its prices are only growing and rising. Therefore, nowadays fireplaces are faced almost exclusively with artificial marble.

Fireplaces in artificial marble look great, see fig. This material is produced in a variety of colors and patterns, even those that do not exist in natural marble or are found as a rare exception. Marble parts for facing fireplaces are sold ready-made, see fig. on the right, or cast according to the designer’s sketch. The latter increases the cost of cladding not to sky-high levels: cladding artificial marble can be made in artisanal conditions and even at home with your own hands.

Artificial marble is easily processed with ordinary steel tools and is quite elastic, which makes it possible to adjust finished parts. If you come across a description on finishing forums about how a team of craftsmen... bent a facing board made of marble, then this is quite possible - the marble was artificial. The disadvantage of artificial marble is its poor thermal conductivity; it is warm to the touch. Therefore, this type of cladding is suitable only for decorative fireplaces.

Cladding with artificial marble is carried out, as with natural ones, in levels (rows): first, large boards are glued to the base surface, corners and overlays are placed on them, and convex decor (rosettes, vases, etc.) is mounted last. The glue used is special for marble, but not gray for cladding with natural marble tiles, but white for artistic cladding. Gray marble glue will stain over time.

There is one circumstance that should be taken into account if you are thinking about decorating a fireplace with artificial marble: facing it, it can be cast on a polyester binder and cast on gypsum. The latter is unsuitable for lining heating devices. Artificial stone marble can be distinguished from cast stone by its matte surface and uneven color, which is especially evident on convex parts, see fig. left.

Adhesives and primers for stoves and fireplaces

Glue for installing linings of fireplaces and stoves is available, as mentioned above, in one- and two-component forms (glue + primer). Stoves and fireplaces are faced with stone only using 2-component glue. It has also already been noted above that for cladding with natural stone, an adhesive with increased load-bearing (holding) capacity is needed. In addition, adhesives for cladding stoves are heat-resistant and heat-resistant. The former can withstand a certain number of thermal cycles with heating up to at least 150 degrees, and the latter retain all their properties when heated for a long time to at least 500 degrees.

Furnaces are clad only with heat-resistant adhesives. Up to 500 degrees, the outer surface of brick kilns, of course, does not heat up, but at 300 degrees, the heat-resistant adhesive can withstand an almost infinite number of heat cycles. Depending on the type of device being finished and the type of cladding, the following adhesives can be recommended:

• K-77 with G-77 primer – heat-resistant with high load-bearing capacity. Suitable for all types of facing and furnace work. The disadvantage is that it takes a long time, 20-25 days, to gain full strength. During this time, the fireplace or stove cannot be lit, and the room with it must be maintained at a comfortable temperature. Relatively inexpensive: 25 kg bag approx. 400 rubles, canister G-77 for it 200 rubles, complete grout for joints – 250 rubles. for a 2 kg bucket. All this is enough for a fairly large oven.
• ANSERGLOB BCX 35 - the same properties as K-77/G-77, but more expensive. But it gains strength faster.
• Plitonit-FireplaceFireproof - suitable for tiling not only fireplaces, but also stoves.
• Plitonit-SuperKamin and SkanfixSuper are heat-resistant adhesives for tiling fireplaces.
• Terracotta adhesive - designed specifically for terracotta tiles. It grabs onto fireplaces and stoves tightly and, judging by the available data, forever. Many have tried to glue porcelain stoneware, clinker, and majolica with it; There seem to be no complaints.
• IVSILTermix, Kleos, Weber Vetonit absolute, Moment Crystal, Ceresit SM-117/5 - suitable for tiling decorative fireplaces that are not regularly lit.
• BauGut FFK is kind of neither fish nor fowl among tile adhesives for fireplace cladding. Quite expensive, heat resistance 300 degrees. Can be recommended for a fireplace in a country house that is not permanently inhabited. Let's say, if in the fall it completely cools down, and a group of people come there for a ski trip on weekends and on New Year's Day and the fireplace is continuously heated intensively.

About tiles

The tiled stove is a truly luxurious structure, even if it is dilapidated, see fig. However, tiling is definitely not the kind of work that can be done by studying the technology from the descriptions; This is an even more delicate matter, requiring experience and accuracy than cladding with natural stone.

Tiles are generally prepared from the same kaolin mass as high-quality tiles. To harmonize with TKR and improve the heating technology of the furnace, the tiles are molded into box-shaped ones with a cavity - a tiller, pos. 1a next rice. – which is filled with sand during the cladding process. You need mountain sand with rough grains and a minimal admixture of clay; it does not swell, does not sinter or cake due to cyclic heating. The tiles are placed on a greasy clay mortar; The clay used is white, the sand is the same mountain sand. Add half a glass to a glass of table salt to a bucket of the prepared solution.

Before facing, the tiles are laid out and sorted out, as in the case of wild stone, achieving evenness in the rows. The dimensions of the tiles have been standardized by GOST since 1947, but the tolerance is quite wide, approx. 1.5 mm. It is impossible to achieve less due to the properties of the material itself. With a cladding height of 10 rows, the spacing of the seams can reach 15 mm, which, as you understand, is in no way acceptable.

Note: The base of large artistic panels on tiles is laid out and adjusted by hand at the factory. Therefore, tiled panels are very expensive, but they are put in place without layout.

The tiling is done in order, tying the tiles together with steel pins and wire. As a rule, the stove is lined with tiles in the order of its construction, and the lining must always be ahead of the masonry, as shown in pos. 3. In this case, the tiles are knitted with anchor loops, as in pos. 1b. Some craftsmen (qualitatively few) know how to tile walk-in stoves; in this case, knitting is done with anchor pins, pos. 2.

And one more thing about the stone...

Recently, flexible stone has also been used for cladding fireplaces: a textile base impregnated with a polyester binder, onto which stone chips are applied “in an artistic disorder.” The textures of the first samples were drawn out manually, but now the crumbs are poured into special installations controlled by computers, which makes it possible to produce a wide variety of unique patterns, see Fig., resulting in generally inexpensive material.

The flexible stone is cut with metal scissors; they can be used to outline curved surfaces (bottom right in the figure). The disadvantage of this material is always a rough surface; No one has yet learned how to produce polished flexible stone. Flexible stone can be mounted on the base surface in different ways, see, for example. track. plot:

Video: flexible stone - how to glue, do-it-yourself installation

Tiles for fireplaces and stoves are a special material. Operating conditions involving high temperatures impose certain requirements on the coating, which must be:

The most suitable facing tiles for stoves are matte, measuring no more than 25 x 25 cm. They are easier to install and maintain, and last longer.

Quick navigation through the article

Types of heat-resistant tiles

Tiles for stoves and fireplaces are varied. Main types:

• Terracotta;
• Majolica;
• Tile;
• Clinker;
• Tiles;
• Fireclay;
• Porcelain tiles;
• Natural marble;
• Fake diamond.

Terracotta

Similar tiles for fireplaces and stoves are characterized by a rough surface, imitating brick and natural stone. It can be used indoors or outdoors. Terracotta heat-resistant tiles are successfully used in saunas and baths. It is made from dense pressed clay.

Important material characteristics:

• Impact resistance and durability;
• Resistance to sudden temperature changes;
• Fire resistance - it is produced at a temperature of 1100ºС;
• Steam and water resistance;
• Good adhesion to any adhesive base;
• High heat transfer, which is due to the textured surface, and thermal expansion corresponds to a similar characteristic of oven bricks.

Examples of using terracotta tiles for outdoor barbecues:

Tile

A ceramic stove (tile), even a heat-resistant one, is sensitive to sudden changes in temperature. For ovens, small matte elements (up to 20 x 25 cm) are preferable - the glaze will become cracked after a while. Usually, old tiles are used for stoves, which you don’t mind throwing away.

Laying such elements on clay or cement mortars is unacceptable, since the water absorption coefficient of ceramics is zero. They require a special one. There is - in a metal frame.
The video shows a master class on tiling a chimney:

Clinker tiles

Such tiles for a fireplace or stove are obtained by mixing fireclay powder, several types of slate clays and other additives. The surface of the slab is not glazed. The surface color varies from white to beige, from orange to red, from light yellow to chocolate brown. The final tone is set by mineral dye.

The clinker board has a higher density than terracotta or majolica, which results in lower water resistance and better frost resistance. These characteristics make it possible to use such a coating where temperature changes are observed.

Tiles

Tiles are box-shaped, have a smooth or textured surface, and are covered with glaze or enamel. It is made and painted by hand, which determines the high cost of the material.

When installed, individual elements form a pattern. The coating is characterized by high heat transfer and the highest environmental friendliness. Cost - from 30,000 rubles per square meter.

Covering the stove and apron with handmade tiles. The tile is made of white clay and covered with glaze.

Fireclay tiles

For a stove, this is an expensive material, made by hand from refractory clays and stone flour, added to enhance strength. Firing occurs at a temperature of 1300ºС. The advantages of fireclay slab are that it:

Available in single and twin versions, but the latter increases the volume of the oven. For household needs, a single one is sufficient.

Fireclay tiles for a fireplace do not require additional insulation of the base surface: they do not need to be grouped with coatings such as natural stone or gypsum.

Porcelain tiles

Porcelain tiles used for facing a fireplace are a mixture of quartz sand, several types of clay, granite and marble chips. Metal oxides and salts act as dyes. The coating is environmentally friendly.

The structure of porcelain tiles for stoves is non-porous and dense. It is resistant to low and high temperatures.

Porcelain tiles can imitate all of the above types of coatings and natural stone. It retains color even in direct sunlight.


The thickness of the elements is from 9 to 12 mm. Heat-resistant porcelain tiles are attached using hot-melt adhesive. If the stove is located outside, use frost-resistant glue.

Marble

Beautiful natural material suitable for expensive interiors. A square meter of 20 mm slab costs about $110. Plus, you need to pay for the services of a designer, precise cutting and labor-intensive work of a craftsman. Read in a separate article.

Fake diamond

A good option for those who do not know how to lay tiles. A stone of different sizes allows you to hide the unevenness of the stove. Even a woman without experience can handle its styling. Before laying, be sure to clean the back side of the tiles from mortar buildup.

The stove is finished with different-sized artificial “torn” stone. Laying was done using heat-resistant Hercules glue. Metal elements are painted with Tikkurila Termal Alluminium paint.

Laying features

When choosing tiles for the stove, pay attention to the reverse side - there should be special notches there to improve adhesion to the base surface.

The structure is reinforced by aluminum corners or a metal woven network with cells of maximum 150 x 150 mm, placed between the tiles and the base surface of the stove. The reinforcing sheet is attached with 100 mm nails or self-tapping screws.

The network is covered with a solution of cement (grade no lower than M400), clay and sand. It is recommended to use elastic adhesive for furnaces based on aluminate cement containing chemical and polymer additives.

The seams are sealed with grout. The uniformity of the width of the gaps between the plates is ensured by limiting crosses.

The most popular materials for finishing inexpensive stoves are fireclay, terracotta, and clinker. Porcelain tiles and tiles are used very rarely. Among expensive finishing materials, tiles and natural marble are more often chosen.

A fireplace in a house or country house is a place of attraction for the whole family. It’s clear that you want it to be beautiful, but practicality also doesn’t hurt - soot and soot, dirt or tar from firewood, all this often ends up on the walls of the portal. For this reason, the surface must be easy to clean. In addition, the finish of the fireplace must be heat-resistant - although the sides of the fireplace do not heat up to the same temperatures as the stove, this requirement should not be neglected. Not many materials meet these requirements. This is heat-resistant plaster, special types of ceramic tiles and stone - natural or decorative.

Fireplace plaster

Plaster is one of the simple and practical options for decorating a brick fireplace. A few years ago, plastered surfaces were whitewashed or painted. Today it is possible to apply a decorative layer with different textures on top of ordinary plaster.

Types of plaster for fireplaces

Finishing a fireplace with plaster is popular for the reason that any design can be developed. The second plus is that if everything is done correctly, you can achieve a smooth surface, the finish is beautiful and durable. For plastering fireplaces, the same compositions are used as for brick stoves. Although the heating temperatures of the surfaces differ, the plaster mixtures are made the same. There are two options: make the plaster composition yourself or buy a ready-made one. If you don’t have experience working with clay and determining its fat content, it’s better to buy one. Store-bought plasters for fireplaces and stoves contain additives and additives that make the surface more durable and cracks are less likely to appear in it.

As a rule, each manufacturer has two formulations with different properties. The first is basic, for rough finishing. It can be applied in a fairly thick layer - up to 10 mm. After drying, the second layer is laid - the finishing layer. It contains more finely ground substances, is applied in a thin layer - usually up to 3 mm, and the surface is smooth. Such a surface can already be painted if it has been plastered smoothly) or decorative plaster can be applied.

If you want to finish the fireplace at a minimal cost, you can make plaster compositions from clay, sand and lime yourself. But, let us repeat once again, without experience working with clay, it is difficult to ensure that homemade plaster does not crack. Compositions for plastering a fireplace for making them yourself are different, here are a few proven ones:

• Clay-lime:
  • 1 part clay and slaked lime + 2 parts sand;
  • based on slaked lime - 2 parts lime, one part gypsum and sand.
• Cement-clay: one part each of clay and cement (M 500) + 2 parts sand;

To make the fireplace plaster solution more durable, reinforcing fibers are added to it. Previously, it was finely chopped straw, later - asbestos fibers, and today glass or fiber fiber is mainly added. The fractional part of this additive is small - 0.1-0.2 parts. It is added to the dry components (cement and sand), and everything is mixed. The dry mixture is added to the clay and/or lime dough, mixed thoroughly again, and water is added if necessary.

It is better to take lime already slaked, in the form of lime paste. If you extinguish it at home, unreacted particles always remain, which are then extinguished during the operation of the fireplace, destroying the plastered surface. Regarding sand, its quantity is precisely selected depending on the fat content of the clay. The solution must be sufficiently plastic. The fat content of the solution is checked using a piece of wood. Dip it into the solution and remove it. If an even layer 2-3 mm thick remains on the surface, the solution is normal. If the layer is thick and lumpy, you need to add sand; if the stick is almost clean, add clay.

The clay is pre-soaked (2 days or until all the lumps are limp), then rubbed through a metal sieve with a mesh of 2 cm. The ground clay dough is once again pressed through the mesh, but with a fine mesh of 0.5-0.7 mm.

You need quarry sand, it must be clean and dry. It is also sifted before use.

For those who don’t want to deal with homemade compounds, here are several companies that produce plaster for fireplaces and stoves. The following compositions performed normally:

• Plitonite super fireplace refractory;
• Petromix KU;
• heat-resistant Terracotta plaster;
• Bossnab;
• RS Parade;
• rtner;
• Kiln plaster HEFNERPUTZ.

The list includes both domestic and European manufacturers. This is not to say that Russian compounds are worse, but working with imported ones is easier.

Features of plastering stoves and fireplaces

The technique of applying the solution itself is no different: a certain layer is applied (sprayed) with a spatula or a special ladle, then leveled (possibly using beacons). The main points are to prepare the fireplace surface for plastering:

• First, all old finishing, if any, is removed from the walls - paint, lime, remains of plaster, mortar, etc. Only clean brick should remain.
• For better adhesion of the plaster mortar to the surface, the seams are deepened by about 1-1.5 cm. Take jointing, a chisel or a screwdriver and scrape out the mortar in the seams.
• All existing cracks are sealed with a repair compound or heat-resistant sealant (which can withstand heating up to 800°C).
• When everything is prepared, take a brush with long bristles and clean the surface well. It must be clean.
• The following are the options:
  • If the surface of the fireplace is relatively flat (the difference is less than 5 mm), you can wet the walls and begin to apply plaster.
  • If, due to the curvature of the surface, the layer will have to be made more than 5 mm, reinforcement is necessary. A metal mesh with a fine mesh is stuffed onto the walls of the fireplace. It is secured with nails, which are driven into the seams (the seams can be left unstitched, or stitched, but not so deeply). To ensure that the caps hold the mesh, metal washers larger than the mesh size are put on. Plaster is applied over this stack. In this case, you can be sure that the plaster will not fall off.

Before you start plastering the fireplace, carefully read the instructions on the package. It usually describes under what conditions and how the plaster should be applied. But experts advise lighting the fireplace, heating the walls to 60°C, then moistening the surface and starting to plaster. The walls are heated so that the brick takes on its “working” dimensions. In this case, there is less chance that the plaster will tear when heated. Wetting with water is necessary to ensure that the solution is not too dry: brick is hygroscopic. If it is dry, it quickly draws water out of the plaster mortar and it becomes too dry and does not harden to its normal state. The result is cracks on the surface.

A few more points regarding drying. When plastering a fireplace, at least two layers are applied. The second can be applied only after the first has dried completely. To speed up drying, you can create a draft, but you cannot light the fireplace. The same applies to the second - finishing - layer.

For the technology of plastering stoves and fireplaces, see the following video.

Fireplace cladding with tiles and porcelain stoneware

The fireplace is finished with tiles or porcelain stoneware using a special heat-resistant adhesive. Not all tiles are suitable for such work. It should withstand heat well, be durable, dense (with small pores), plus, it should be easy to care for.

Decorating a fireplace with ordinary ceramic tiles is a lottery. If you're lucky, it will stand normally; if not, after a while the layer of glaze will be covered with a network of tiny cracks. The appearance will be “not very good” and it will be difficult to wash. If possible, it is better to use special materials:

• Terracotta. The tile has an unglazed surface and has a characteristic color, which is how it got its name. It has a coefficient of thermal expansion similar to brick, so it does not crack.

  

  Terracotta - tiles for finishing fireplaces and stoves

• Majolica. These are the same terracotta tiles only with glaze applied to the front side. The technology is more complex, the price is higher. Decorating a fireplace with majolica requires careful development of the sketch - you won’t be able to cut such tiles. It also requires a highly qualified craftsman - the slightest deviations are noticeable. Apparently, for this reason, and also because of the very high price, you can more often see fireplaces and stoves with majolica fragments. I must say that these fragments greatly decorate and enliven the interior.

  

  Majolica - colorful and beautiful

• Heat-resistant clinker tiles. It is made from a mixture of several types of clay, with the addition of fireclay. It is molded, pressed, then fired. The result is a thin - 9-12 mm thick - and durable tile. Colors range from whitish-gray to brown.

  

• Porcelain tiles. The production technology is similar - first the composition is pressed, then fired. The components differ: in addition to several types of clay, quartz sand, fine granite or marble chips, dyes, oxides and metal salts are added. The structure of porcelain stoneware is low-porous, it tolerates both high and low temperatures well. The technology makes it possible to obtain material that imitates marble, other natural stones, terracotta, clinker and majolica. The disadvantage of porcelain stoneware is that it is difficult to cut and has a lot of weight. For cladding fireplaces, thin slabs are used, so the weight is not terrible, and you can send it to the company to cut it (you just need to know the exact dimensions of the required fragments).

  

  Finishing the fireplace with porcelain stoneware - you can design it in any style

• Tiles. The production technology is not much different - the clay is molded and fired in a kiln. The main difference is the shape and method of installation. The tiles are installed during the laying of the stove or fireplace - the fragments are fixed in the seams using wires. So finishing a finished fireplace with tiles is impossible.

  

Special tiles for facing fireplaces and stoves are made in small or medium formats, and the same porcelain stoneware is available in large slabs. Seamless installation is certainly attractive, but there is no guarantee that such a finish will not fall off. The coefficient of thermal expansion is quite different, which is why incidents are possible.

Technology for installing tiles on the walls of the fireplace and exhaust pipe

All of the listed types of tiles, except tiles, are installed on fireplaces using the same technology. Finishing a fireplace with tiles begins with the preparatory stage, and it coincides exactly with the one described above: clean the surface, unstitch the seams, heat to 60°C, wet it and you can start finishing the fireplace with tiles.

If there are large irregularities, the fireplace must be plastered. Mortars - any containing clay and cement, but not containing lime. Preparation is standard, as is the plastering process. The difference is that the second leveling layer does not need to be applied.

The tiles should be laid on the walls of the fireplace after they have completely dried. The laying technology is standard, the difference is in the thickness of the seams. For a fireplace, it is better to make them larger (to compensate for different amounts of thermal expansion), so instead of crosses, pieces of 9.5 mm thick plasterboard are used.

The adhesive is applied to the wall or tile and leveled with a notched trowel. The tile is pressed against the surface, rocking it from side to side to set it in the desired position. Set the distance between the fragments using plasterboard spacers. Remove from 3-4 hours after installation.

The tiles on the fireplace are left to dry. The exact time depends on the glue used and the weather, and is usually indicated on the glue packaging. The last stage is filling the seams. The grout used for the joints is also special; it is better to buy it together with glue from the same company, so that there are no compatibility problems. The process is also standard - the composition is diluted with water according to the instructions, the seams are filled with a rubber spatula or from a construction syringe. The freshly applied solution is leveled, forming a beautiful seam. Excess is wiped off with a soft cloth.

Here are some tips from the experts:

• To ensure that the tiles do not fall, attach a metal mesh with a fine mesh to the wall. Better yet, hammer nails into the seams and intertwine them with soft steel wire, creating a wire frame. This option is better because in difficult places the mesh can be made thicker. This step is necessary if you are going to install heavy porcelain tiles or large format tiles.
• In order not to put a thick layer of glue, apply it both to the wall and to the tiles, and remove the excess here and there with a notched trowel.
• Before laying the tiles, lay them out on the floor so you can get a realistic idea of ​​how attractive the finish will be.
• After laying each tile, excess mortar is removed from the joints. They will then be filled with a special paste. The surface of the tile is immediately wiped clean - if the glue hardens, it is almost impossible to clean it.

The main thing during this work is to ensure that no air cavities form under the finishing. Air has a high coefficient of expansion and, when heated, it will eventually tear the tiles away from the wall.

Video tutorials for finishing a fireplace with tiles

No matter how much you read about how to do it, it’s much more useful to look - you can grasp more details.

How to veneer a fireplace with stone

Finishing a fireplace with stone is technologically not much different from laying tiles. The difference is in working with the material itself, but there are almost no technical features. The only thing is that when using natural flagstone, be sure to cover the fireplace with mesh. Without it it will fall off.

Finishing the fireplace with stone is one of the options

Features of working with artificial gypsum stone

This type of decorative stone is inexpensive and lightweight; it can be used to decorate fireplaces, especially without overloading the ceilings. There are only some nuances, without which you will not achieve a good result.

The technology for producing gypsum stone is such that each element has some irregularities, sagging, and protrusions. We grind them off with a knife, fortunately the plaster is cut without problems. We grind each cladding element so that at the back, around the perimeter, a frame is formed with an angle of 45° (or so).

Moreover, often the corner elements of the gypsum decorative stone are several millimeters higher than the ordinary ones from the same collection. In order for the cladding to look monolithic, this difference also has to be removed - grinded down. When all the cladding elements are adjusted, they can be glued into place. Heat-resistant glue is used for cladding fireplaces, although with the correct design it almost does not heat up.

Working with natural stone

Most often, fireplaces are faced with natural stone, sawn into plates. It is also called flagstone or stone tiles. The shape of all the fragments is different, you have to adjust it to make everything look beautiful. In this case, it is definitely better to first lay out the entire picture on some plane, select and process the elements. Only after the mosaic is complete can it be glued. The entire technology for installing a fireplace on the walls is described above and is practically no different. The whole process can be seen in the video.

Interesting options for finishing fireplaces (photo)

All the methods described above can be combined to create finishes in different styles. Sometimes it turns out very beautiful. We post some already implemented ideas below.

There are two options to achieve this effect - paint the existing brick fireplace or veneer it with clinker tiles

This is polished porcelain stoneware

This is unpolished porcelain tile, small format. As you can see, it fits well into round shapes. Horizontal surfaces and columns are also porcelain tiles of a similar texture, but in the form of slabs

Smooth clinker tiles - strictly and functional

Tile inserts - beauty

The modern design of a private house in no way abandons traditions, but only emphasizes all their advantages. Today it is difficult to imagine a cottage or dacha without a fireplace or a real stove, because this is the real heart of the home: it is hot, alive, and kind. Under no circumstances should you throw away the stoves from the house you inherited from your grandparents. They will become a “highlight”, a kind of designer feature of the new interior. And covering the old surface with heat-resistant ceramic tiles will help with this. She is the one who turns unsightly fireplaces and stoves into unique works of art.

Fireproof ceramic tiles: heat-resistant tiles for fireplaces and stoves

Cladding tiles consist mainly of clay, glaze, and water. All this is compressed and fired at fairly high temperatures. Heat-resistant tiles differ from ordinary ceramic tiles, first of all, in their water absorption coefficient, which should be no more than 3%. Fireproof stove tiles can withstand temperatures of more than 1000 degrees Celsius.

This stove finish has a number of advantages. In addition to strength and heat resistance, another big advantage is its aesthetics. A stove or fireplace will fit perfectly into any interior, be it a luxurious classic or a strict hi-tech, you just need to choose the necessary pattern and texture.

Heat-resistant tiles are very easy to care for: they can be easily washed with ordinary soapy water. Another important factor is that the furnace thermal coating does not allow flue gases to pass through. And of course, it is worth mentioning separately that the fire-resistant cladding is durable.

Fireproof tiles come in several types. These include: terracotta (one of the first types of ceramics, an unglazed product with a highly porous structure), majolica (improved glazed terracotta), clinker tiles (outwardly reminiscent of facing bricks, but, due to its composition, has a more durable low-porous structure), porcelain stoneware (in its composition includes quartz sand interspersed with granite, marble chips, salts and oxides of various metals), tiles (the heat transferred with their help is considered the most environmentally friendly).

Heat Resistant Tile Adhesive: Where is fire resistant tile adhesive used?

To cover a fireplace or stove, of course, you need a special adhesive material. Fireproof, or, as it is also called, heat-resistant tile adhesive, is a substance based on inorganic components with water-soluble alkali metal silicates. The scope of its application is quite wide. Using this glue, tile materials are attached to brick and metal bases. It is also used in organizing thermal insulation in heating furnaces, for connecting refractory materials to each other, in the manufacture and repair of linings for industrial furnaces, and in many other areas.

The composition of the protective heat-resistant adhesive is quite complex. It includes sodium liquid glass with a silicate module, electrocorundum, refractory clay, kaolin, and water. This mixture is used only for interior work; it is not advisable to use it on bases that are periodically subject to bending. It is worth noting that such a substance has soundproofing and heat-accumulating properties.

A little more about laying tiles

Types of fireproof tiles

Refractory tiles for stoves, with high heat resistance, are produced by manufacturers in several versions:

• terracotta - with an unglazed surface and a highly porous structure. This type of heat-resistant tile was one of the first to appear on the market;
• majolica - with a glazed surface and a highly porous structure;
• clinker - with a fine-porous structure, characterized by increased strength;
• porcelain stoneware - the composition includes: quartz sand, metal oxides, marble and granite chips. This material is resistant to high temperatures and temperature changes, and is also environmentally friendly.

Some nuances when laying tiles

To ensure that stove tiles serve you for a long time, use special heat-resistant adhesive for stoves and fireplaces when laying them. The thickness of the adhesive composition should be 2-5 mm, otherwise the risk of cracking of even the most durable material increases significantly. The glue should not have a specific odor. If installation is carried out on metal parts, keep in mind that metal expands when heated and therefore you need to leave approximately 1 cm indentations. If the cladding of stoves is carried out outdoors, use moisture-resistant glue. Laying is carried out only on a plastered surface. The cut pieces are placed at the very end. Correct installation technique extends the life of the material.

What is the difference between heat-resistant tiles and conventional cladding?

Heat-resistant tiles for stoves and fireplaces differ from simple cladding in that they have a low water absorption coefficient (less than 3%). Thermal tiles can withstand very high temperatures, do not crack or change color. This material is resistant to severe frosts, so it is suitable for finishing stoves located in the open air. The advantage of using such cladding is also its heat transfer. Heat-resistant finish prevents flue gases from entering the surrounding area. Caring for her is quite easy and simple. The material has a variety of shades and textures, so you can easily choose the right option for any interior.

Where can ceramic tiles be used?

Ceramic tiles for stoves and fireplaces are, first of all, a decorative material that is designed to make a fireplace or stove more beautiful and create a special, unique style. The material is not used for cladding so-called working surfaces, that is, it is not used for finishing, for example, heaters (in sauna stoves) and the internal surfaces of a stove or fireplace. In the photo below you can see an example of a fireplace lined with ceramic tiles. As you can see, it is used only for decorative purposes.

What is the difference between fireclay tiles and ordinary ceramic tiles?

First of all, fireclay tiles differ from ordinary ceramic tiles in their greater thickness and variety of shapes and sizes (you can make custom-made options of any shape and any size). This material is not a mass-produced product, so it has a special appearance, characteristic of handmade products. Fireclay tiles are quite durable, heat-resistant and moisture-resistant. When broken, you can see the presence of fireclay grains in the structure, which are absent when a regular ceramic one is broken. Clinker tiles have a similar structure, but they are much denser. The price depends on the artistic execution (painting, mixing different glazes, etc.).

Are tiles suitable for lining a stove?

Not every tile is suitable for lining stoves. When choosing, keep in mind that the material will be used under conditions of constant heating and cooling. Experts say that it is better to choose small tiles for stoves and fireplaces (no more than 25x25 cm). It is advisable to choose matte-colored tiles, since over time a network of small cracks will form on the glazed surface. Tile should not be used at all if the stove is located in a country house that is not intended for permanent residence and is heated only in winter - the tile cannot withstand this regime and soon begins to crack and crumble.

What should the tiles for the fireplace be?

Fireplace tiles initially imply high temperatures. Materials used to decorate the fireplace must meet the following requirements:

• low porosity structure;
• heat resistance;
• high strength;
• high resistance to mechanical damage;
• thickness not less than 8mm.

Terracotta, majolica and clinker tiles have these properties. The finishing materials for fireplaces also differ in their variety of designs and installation methods.