Painting is a universal finishing method with a wide range of decorative techniques: from plain walls painted in any of many shades, to designer painting using stencils and templates. However, any design idea can come to nothing if there are cracks, differences and other defects on the surface of the walls to be painted. The problem is that all the unevenness of the base is very noticeable when light from a window or other source falls on them at an angle. Puttying before painting corrects the slightest irregularities in the walls and gives them perfect smoothness. Thus, puttying is a very important process, but painstaking and takes a lot of effort and time. However, anyone can cope with it by showing persistence in following all the rules and technologies.

In this article we will tell you how to get a perfectly flat and smooth surface for painting, and we will give tips that will help even an inexperienced craftsman do everything efficiently and beautifully.

It should be noted that not all surfaces are suitable for puttying. These can be plastered and plasterboard bases, walls and ceilings in monolithic and panel houses, provided that they are installed level and do not require leveling. But it will not work to putty on bare brickwork, since the putty is applied in a layer of up to 15 mm, and leveling such a wall may require a much larger layer.

1. Types of putties

There is a huge selection of putties on the building materials market, which differ in different parameters.

By degree of readiness differentiate dry and ready mixtures. Dry mixesattractive low price, andreadythe compositions have an ideal homogeneous consistency, do not take time to mix, and do not require additional tools and containers.

By method of application isolate compoundsfor manual And machine application. Putty for mechanized application has a smaller fraction and a longer shelf life of the finished solution. It is used on large sites to reduce labor costs and speed up the process.

In addition, putties differ in manufacturer, type of container and packaging.

All these parameters rather determine the ease of use of the putty in each specific case, and the main thing when choosing a material remains the scope of its application. This could be a kitchen, a bathroom, or even a wall in an open gazebo, that is, a surface in conditions of high humidity and temperature changes. Or you need to paint the walls in a children's room, where the harmlessness and hypoallergenicity of finishing materials is especially important.

The scope of application of the mixture determinesbinder in its composition (cement, gypsum or polymer). Let's take a closer look at each of them.

Thanks to the main componentcementThe putties are moisture-resistant, which allows them to be used in rooms with high levels of humidity, for example, in bathrooms and kitchens. They have no analogues in terms of strength. As a rule, cement putties are frost-resistant, so they are excellent for finishing facades, open balconies and window slopes. The relatively low price is another plus. Disadvantages of this material: difficulty of application, long drying period and ability to shrink.

Plasterputties have a number of advantages: low cost, huge range, vapor permeability, hypoallergenic, good adhesion to paints, wallpaper and other finishing materials, ease of application, no shrinkage. This putty sets quickly, so it requires some skill in application. Despite all its advantages, the scope of application of gypsum putty is limited to heated rooms with normal humidity levels. So, it is ideal for bedrooms, children's rooms and living rooms.

IN polymer With kneading astringent thingsThe materials used are acrylic resins or latex. Only this type of putty is sold both dry and ready-made. The range includes models that can be used in both dry and wet areas. For example, dry polymer puttiesProspectors Finish Plus And Founded Ekonsilk PP38W for rooms with any level of humidity, and ready-made polymer puttyDanogips SuperFinish only for dry rooms. Polymer putties fit well on plasterboard bases and can be applied in an ultra-thin layer, reducing material consumption. The mixtures are supplied in sealed plastic buckets, which can be stored for a long time even in a humid environment, unlike plaster and cement ones, the paper packaging of which easily gets wet. The price of polymer putties is much higher than gypsum and cement putties. But the wide range of choice, ease of use and guaranteed high quality of the putty surface will justify the investment.

So, we figured out the scope of application. We found out that only cement putties are used in exterior work. For wet rooms you need to choose from cement and polymer compositions. And for dry rooms, any putty is suitable, but gypsum or polymer are considered the best option.

Remains deal with the wallsin these very premises, namely -how smooth are they?. There are divisions of putties by purpose: for starting(basic), finishing And universal.

1.1. Starting putty

Starting (or base) putty is used to smooth out significant surface defects. Its features are large particle size (coarse grinding), crack resistance, and the ability to apply it in a thick layer (up to 12-15 mm). This is an inexpensive dry composition, usually cement-based (for example,Prospectors Basic gray, 20 kg with layer thickness up to 8 mm) with a long period of complete drying (usually 24 hours). Using rules and beacons, you can use it to correct gross defects in plaster. The base layer is not ideal and is not suitable for further painting, because, firstly, it is gray in color (since the base of the mixture is cement), and secondly, it is too rough. Therefore, after complete drying, a layer of finishing putty is applied to the starting layer.

1.2. Finishing putty

The finishing putty has a fine-grained structure, which allows it to be applied in an ultra-thin layer. It is not allowed to apply this putty in thick layers - the maximum layer thickness is 3-4 mm. Working with this material is easy, thanks to its good ductility and softness.

The finishing putty for painting can be ready-made polymer (such asProspectors Superfinish Paste, 15 kg with application thickness from 0 to 2 mm), dry cement (Weber.Vetonit VH, 20 kg with a layer thickness of 1 to 3 mm) or dry polymer (Knauf Polymer Finish, 20 kg with layer thickness from 0.2 to 4 mm).

1.3. Universal putty

Using two types of putty can be a difficult task for a novice craftsman: you need to choose the right materials to combine, correctly calculate the required amount, spend twice the time drying each layer, and also financial costs. To simplify the task, universal putties are designed, which have a medium grind and have absorbed the best properties of starting and finishing mixtures. With their help, it is easy to make the surface for painting smooth (though you have to sand more), and a layer can be applied, if necessary, up to 1 cm.

Universal putty is suitable for both types of work, but more often itused for closing joints of sheet materials (gypsum plasterboard, gypsum fiber board, PGP, chipboard and others) or sealing cracks and holes.

Gypsum compositions are universal (for example,Knauf Fugen, 25 kg with a layer thickness from 1 to 5 mm) and polymer (Prospectors PolyArt super white, 20 kg with layer thickness from 0.2 to 5 mm).

2. What you need to know about preparation

So, we figured out the types of putties and chose the appropriate material. All that remains is to prepare the tools necessary for the work and prime the walls.

2.1. Working tools and materials

A properly selected tool plays an important role in obtaining a quality result. To prime and putty the walls you will need the following: tools :

• Wide roller for applying primer to walls;
• Brush for priming corners and joints;
• Construction mixer, electric drill or hammer drill with a mixer attachment for mixing the solution;
• A bucket for stirring and a brush for cleaning it after each batch;
• Rigid large spatula (30-35 cm wide) for quick and even filling of large surfaces;
• A flexible small spatula (about 10 cm wide) for finishing hard-to-reach places and for applying the mixture to a large spatula;
• Corner spatulas for surface treatment in the outer and outer corners of the room;
• The rule is 1 to 3 meters long depending on the area;
• Bubble level, plumb line and construction pencil for marking;
• A sanding machine, fine-grained sandpaper or a construction float for final sanding of walls for painting.

Necessary materials :

• Selected putty;
• Primer;
• Perforated corner profiles for strengthening internal and external corners and arches;
• Beacon profiles with a height from the base to the ridge of 6 mm or 10 mm for applying the starting layer, as well as dowels, screws and fastenings for their installation;
• Serpyanka fiberglass mesh for puttying joints of plasterboard sheets and cracks in plaster.

2.2. Preparing walls before puttying

Before puttying, first of all, we clean the plastered walls with a hard spatula from deposits of plaster and particles of debris, after which we brush off the dust from the walls with a brush or broom. This will provide better soil adhesion to the surface.

To strengthen the corners, we install metal or plastic perforated corner profiles (corners) on them. We attach them to the same putty, screws or a construction stapler.

In plasterboard structures, cover with fiberglass mesh and cover with special putty (Knauf Fugen ) joints between sheets, screw heads, cracks and dents.

After the first layer has dried, a second one is made, which aligns the seams in the same plane with the drywall, after which the walls are cleaned.

After the primer has completely dried, it is recommended to apply it with a second layer. In this case, the walls will draw less moisture from the putty. This way the putty will harden more slowly, which will leave more time for its distribution and leveling on the surface.

3. Technology of puttying walls for painting

The walls have been prepared. We begin to putty. The putty is applied in several stages: basic leveling, finishing and final sanding. This process takes a long time, since you will have to apply at least three layers and let each of them dry completely.

3.1. Starting layer of putty

The initial stage of putty levels out surface defects up to 12-15 mm deep, so the starting composition is applied in a thick layer.

For deep point surface defects (for example, joints of drywall sheets, places where self-tapping screws are screwed into drywall, cracks and dents), putty is applied, over whichlay fiberglass mesh or paper reinforcing tape. Press it down a little, but so that folds and bubbles do not form. Leave to dry.

If there are deep unevenness throughout the entire area, then you will have to level it using beacons. Beacons can be installed in several ways. The fastest and easiest way is to attach them to special clips (galvanizedKnauf Kremmer Clips or plasticMounts for beacons AriaStroy ). For this, in addition to beacons and clips, you need a hammer drill, dowels and screws, as well as marking tools. First of all, drill several holes on the applied markings with an equal space between them. Place the dowels in them and tighten the screws so that their heads are in the same plane as the marking threads. Place the clips on the screws and secure the beacon itself in them.

We prepare the solution only after installing the beacons. Use a construction mixer or a drill with a special attachment for this. Remember that gypsum putty has a short pot life of the solution, so you should not dilute a large volume. In addition, if the puttying process is new to you, then regardless of the type of mixture, it should be diluted in small portions to get used to it. It is necessary to have time to use up the entire solution before it hardens in the bucket.

Important! After each batch, you need to thoroughly wash the bucket and clean it with a brush from hardened particles of the solution so that they do not get into the next batch of fresh solution and damage the coating.

When using beacons, simply add the first layer of putty between the beacons and smooth it out from the bottom up. As a result, air bubbles form on the surface. Break them apart with a spatula, sprinkle some putty on them and run the rule over the beacons again.

Let's reveal the secret of an ideal result: 30-40 minutes after leveling one span, apply the rule from top to bottom. This action will straighten the beacons that sag a little during puttying.

In putty work without beacons, apply putty with a large spatula. Scoop the mixture from the bucket with a spatula and apply the mixture from it onto the large one. The optimal tilt of the tool is 45 degrees. It will not be possible to remove the putty the first time.After applying a thick layer, wait about a minute and remove excess with a clean spatula. In this case, there will be fewer grooves and the mixture will not slip (as usually happens on gypsum board).

After leveling, leave the surface to dry for several hours.

3.2. Finishing putty

Wash the tool thoroughly after applying the base putty. We will continue to work with them. The technique of finishing putty does not differ from the starting one, it is simply laid in a layer of no more than 3 mm.Hold the putty knife at a 90-degree angle to the wall and apply firm pressure while applying the mortar. The result is an ultra-thin layer that will fill the smallest grooves.

We continue to putty until we get the most even surface for painting, after which we leave it to dry.

3.3. Grout

After waiting for the putty to dry completely, we begin to sand it. There is a manual and mechanized method.

Mechanized methodgrinding significantly speeds up the process, but the quality suffers (a line from the sandpaper remains). Before painting, you will still have to go through the surface manually. In addition, the cost of the equipment is quite high. Therefore, this method is suitable for professional craftsmen who regularly carry out repair work.

Advantages of the manual method - this is the ease of work and the availability of equipment. In this case, sanding is done with sandpaper of P180 grit (for example,Yoko P180 sandpaper on a fabric basis, 230×280 mm ) or an abrasive mesh. In addition to them, you will need a sanding block (for example,Grinder with handle 230x105mm, STAYER ).

Important! To protect yourself from dust, be sure to wear a respirator, goggles, as well as protective gloves and a hat.

Carry out the work carefully in a circular motion. You need to rub thoroughly, there should be no protrusions or roughness left..

Advice: You can check the evenness of the walls using directional light from a flashlight or lamp.

At the end of the work, all that remains is to remove dust from the surfaces to be painted using a vacuum cleaner and apply primer. And the walls are ready to be painted.

Building yard

How to putty walls for painting

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Painting walls with various compositions used to be common in the USSR. Not only public institutions were painted, but also the premises of the house. Most often these were the bathroom and kitchen. Later, wallpaper came into fashion, and it became easier to buy tiles for bathrooms. It would seem that paint has completely become a thing of the past, remaining in memory as a relic of socialism. But it turned out that fashion is coming back, and painted walls are coming back with it.

Of course, these are no longer those curved surfaces shiny with oil paint that we remember in kindergartens and public toilets. Now even in such places there are certain requirements for the quality of work. Therefore, putty for painting walls has become an integral part of painting work, and this procedure is painstaking.

Why do you need putty?

There are two good reasons for puttingty for painting:

1. The plaster layer is characterized by large pores, which leads to excessive paint consumption;
2. The surface of the plaster is rarely smooth; even if it is geometrically ideal, small details (stains, pits) will spoil the appearance of the painted wall, and with oblique lighting, all defects will become visible.

Therefore, wall putty for painting should always be of good quality: the wall should be made as smooth and flat as possible. And if wallpapering can hide defects with skillful fitting, then paint will not forgive you for this. Thus, the easiest way to finish has now become the most labor-intensive.

Main action steps

Preparation for painting is carried out in two stages - preparatory and main. The first stage cannot be skipped; the principle works here: measure seven times, cut once. It is also worth mentioning some rules, concerning plastering works:

• the thicker the total layer, the greater their total number;
• Before applying the next layer, the previous one must dry naturally.

Estimation of work volumes

You will need a rule or a long level, or better yet, both. You already know the length and height of the walls, but it’s not just about the area. The putty consumption will depend on the quality of your wall.

Attach a rule vertically to each corner and evaluate how much the wall deviates from the vertical, how many holes and bumps there are on it. The same angle of inclination, if it is small, can be ignored, but the difference (propeller speed) will have to be adjusted.

You can also hammer nails into all four corners of the wall (or screw in self-tapping screws), and then pull the cords over them at a certain distance from the wall so that one is clearly above the other. This way you will see humps and holes as you move consistently along the wall with the rule.

If the differences are more than 5 cm, then before applying putty it is better to level the wall with plaster - this material is cheaper. If the differences are insignificant, you can get by with simple putty.

To save money, it is better to perform the procedure with two compositions - gypsum plaster and finishing putty. Both are applied with a spatula, so it will be convenient for you.

Geometric alignment of walls

Before starting work, check the strength of the base. Tap the wall with a hammer - if you hear a booming sound, remove loose plaster from this place. Clean the surface of old coatings (wallpaper, paint).

After this, the wall must be primed. A deep penetration soil is suitable - it will restrain crumbling, if any, and create better adhesion of the future layer to the surface.

Mix the gypsum plaster according to the instructions on the package using a mixer. Its amount should be such that you can produce it within 20 minutes. Of course, an inhibitor added to such mixtures allows you to correct the result within an hour or even two, but it’s not worth the risk - the setting composition is inconvenient to apply and it loses strength.

Apply the solution with light strokes. If you are right-handed, it will be more convenient to work from right to left. Control alignment by rule; if you are not confident in yourself or the wall is too crooked, it is more advisable to align it with beacons. Pay special attention to corners- there should be no lumps or drips in them.

You need to measure the result of your work not only vertically, but also horizontally. Try to achieve such a wall geometry that there are no more than two millimeter-deep holes per 1 square meter, otherwise this defect will later annoy you with its appearance.

Until the plaster has completely set, it needs to be smoothed. You can do this with a wet spatula, but it is more convenient to use special stainless steel trowels that resemble a plaster float. The purpose of this procedure is remove stains from the spatula and give the surface maximum smoothness.

The consumption of dry mixture can be different - it all depends on the initial condition of the wall. For some, it is enough to level a couple of sections, and for others, it is enough to level the entire wall. If you own a house with old plaster, it would be better to cover the entire wall with a small layer to cover the coarse sand protruding from the wall, typical of Soviet-built houses.

After this stage the wall should dry.

To achieve even corners, use a special corner spatula, and press a perforated corner onto protruding corners. Rules for working with putty

Before you start, you'll need to be clean. Remove all drips and dried pieces, if any, from the corners. Remove any debris from the floor if there is any left. To dilute the dry mixture, if you do not use a ready-made mixture, take a clean bucket. The mixer should also shine.

Cleanliness at this stage is more important than ever - caught under a spatula the garbage will “paint” on the wall, which will greatly spoil your work.

For work, choose a wide spatula, this will make it easier to achieve perfect evenness. You will also need a small spatula to apply the solution.

After diluting the mixture or opening the can, take the putty onto a large spatula and begin applying the composition to the surface with wide movements. Your task is to make a layer of about 1-2 mm, the smoother the better. Avoid strong pressure or, conversely, weak pressure - this will create new humps. If marks remain along the edges, look at the spatula from the side: it may be better to turn it the other way.

After finishing the work, we again wait for the walls to dry.

Result evaluation and adjustment

At this point you will need a portable light bulb. Turn it on and place it as close to the wall as possible, pointing it at its plane. Are you scared? And for good reason. You saw shadows from stains and holes.

To begin with, try to get rid of the former with sandpaper or mesh, and outline the latter with a pencil. If there are fewer shadows, move the light bulb to the other side and do the same procedure again.

We carefully fill the outlined holes with the same putty, for which you can take a smaller spatula.

If you have, as they say, a full hand, then you are unlikely to need to perform this operation more than once. Beginners will have a harder time; they may have to do this four times. Don't be lazy, do it. No amount of paint can hide such a defect.

When you finally achieve good quality of the wall, you can sand it and begin the final finishing. Approach the sanding process responsibly: the smoother your wall is, the easier it will be to paint.

Rules for painting walls

Before painting the walls, after puttying and sanding, the wall must be primed. Even if your putty is applied evenly, one problem may arise when painting, especially characteristic of dry mixtures: they get dirty. Dust will settle on the roller and interfere with painting, so the top layer should be strengthened.

After drying, you can begin the main work.

Stir the paint, if necessary, apply the color to the entire volume of the room at once (so that there is no difference in color). Pour the paint into a flask, dip the roller in it and squeeze it out: the paint should not drip off it.

Choose a roller based on the thickness of the paint and its composition. Thus, water-based liquid paints can be applied with a foam roller, but the thicker the paint, the longer the pile required. For paints containing some solvents, you should not use foam rubber - it may dissolve. Usually such things are indicated on the packaging. Velor rollers are universal - they are suitable for all paints. If you are not a professional painter, choose this one.

The paint is applied in two layers, and it will be better if the first one dries a little first. For some paints, you should wait until the layer has completely dried, otherwise you risk getting a surface with drips and sagging. Paint the corners with a brush.

If you have a geometric design on your wall, use masking tape to create clear boundaries.

Each case is individual, so the most general principles of working with walls for painting were described above. There may not be many of them, so below are a few recommendations - not everyone will need them, but they will help someone:

Puttying walls for painting with your own hands is not a difficult task. The main thing is to acquire the practical skills necessary to perform such work in the future with high quality and as quickly as possible.

Many builders know that the larger the base area to be processed, the more difficult the work ahead, so in this case it is necessary to carefully select putty for walls to be painted. Otherwise, all surface defects will be noticeable, especially in well-lit rooms. Therefore, puttying the walls before painting is a mandatory step in the repair work.

In order to get a perfectly flat surface, you need to choose the right materials and necessary tools, as well as follow the recommendations of specialists regarding the implementation of this procedure. This will be discussed in our article.

Before you start painting the base, the base needs to be prepared. To do this, you will need to remove the old finish and clean the surface from dirt and dust.

The process of filling walls for painting is carried out in several stages. The mixture is applied to the base in several layers, each subsequent ball is made after the previous layer has completely dried. Then the base is sanded and cleaned. This procedure may take about two days.

Why is it necessary to paint walls using putty? The fact is that putty, unlike plaster, has a finer structure, which allows you to hide all minor surface imperfections and create a perfectly smooth base.

The surface ready for painting usually consists of the following layers:

• The base is concrete, drywall, wood, cinder block, brick or other materials.
• Plaster – the thickness of the material should not exceed 50 millimeters; the walls are plastered for protection and insulation.
• Starting putty - a layer of 10 millimeters, is carried out to eliminate minor defects in the base.
• Finishing putty - a layer of 2 millimeters, is carried out to create a smooth surface.

Types of putty mixtures

Basically, when choosing putty, users pay attention to the following criteria:

1. no shrinkage;
2. good adhesion;
3. degree of drying;
4. absence of various impurities;
5. ease of grinding.

However, an important selection criterion is the type of area to be treated, which directly depends on the quality of the coating. Let's look at the main materials that are used for various bases.

Cement

This type of painting material is the most durable and reliable, which is perfect for all types of surfaces. Cement-based putties are resistant to high temperatures and moisture. They are durable and are used for both façade and interior work.

Note! In addition to cement, this putty contains lime or gypsum. The first material provides the mixture with high plasticity and ease of application. Gypsum speeds up the drying process of the material, which significantly reduces the overall time of construction work.

Advantages of the composition:

• ease of use - even a beginner can easily handle this putty;
• affordable price.

Among the disadvantages, one can note the coarse-grained structure, compared to other types of mixtures.

Plaster

Gypsum putties are universal, starting or finishing. The choice of such finishing depends on the type of work performed.

Note! When working with gypsum-based putties, some skill is required, since the mixture sets easily.

Such materials are used for interior work. The gypsum mixture easily seals cracks and joints and eliminates minor defects.

Among the advantages of the material the following qualities can be noted:

1. environmental friendliness;
2. good adhesion;
3. low consumption;
4. affordable price;
5. ease of grinding.

The disadvantages are the rapid setting of the material and the fact that it cannot be used for facade work. In addition, gypsum does not come into contact with concrete well and should not be used to treat substrates for painting in rooms with high humidity.

Polymer

Polymer putties are sold ready-made, which is very convenient for processing. Such compositions are acrylic and latex, which create a perfectly even, dense layer. These mixtures are highly resistant to external irritants and mechanical loads, and therefore are suitable for facade finishing.

Also, polymer putties are resistant to moisture, do not wear off or shrink. They are easy to sand.

Such mixtures have a fine-grained structure, which makes it possible to eliminate almost all flaws in the base.

The advantages of polymers include the following qualities:

• high elasticity;
• resistance to temperature changes and moisture;
• no shrinkage;
• resistance to mechanical stress;
• ease of use;
• high adhesion;
• quick drying;
• low consumption;
• thermal insulation;
• environmental friendliness.

Flaws:

1. high price;
2. when applied in a thick layer, the material may crack;
3. low breathability.

Necessary tools for work

To apply putty for painting you will need the following tools:

• plastic bucket for diluting the mixture;
• electric drill for mixing the composition with water;
• narrow and wide spatula;
• roller;
• corner spatula;
• sanding machine or abrasive mesh.

In order to properly putty walls for painting, it is necessary to level the walls with starting putty, then apply the finishing mixture and grout the surface. Let's look at these three stages in more detail.

Preparing the walls

Preparing the walls before applying putty for painting is a mandatory stage of work. If finishing will be carried out on plasterboard, then the joints between the sheets should be carefully sealed. You will also need to cover cracks, holes and dents with reinforcing mesh before using putty.

Before puttying, the walls must be cleaned of dust and dirt, wiped with a damp cloth and dried. Then you need to apply a primer to the base. The solution is applied using a roller or brush. The surface should be primed in several layers.

The drying time of the primer is indicated on the packaging; each subsequent layer is applied only after the previous ball has completely dried. After completing the priming work, you can proceed directly to puttying.

Starting layer

You will need to level the base with the starting mixture by applying a thick layer of the composition to the base. The first step is to dilute the dry mixture with water in the proportions indicated on the package. Then the composition must be mixed well using a construction mixer and left for fifteen minutes. If you use gypsum putty for painting, it is not recommended to dilute it all, since it sets quickly and will be unsuitable for use. Prepare the solution in small portions.

Putty work for painting should be carried out in the direction from top to bottom. The putty is applied using a wide spatula; a narrow tool is used to scoop up the mixture and seal the base in hard-to-reach places.

You need to hold the spatula at an angle of thirty degrees, and scoop out the mixture in small quantities. This manipulation allows you to eliminate defects on the base as much as possible. Before applying the first layer of material, large holes should be covered with a double-glazed window or reinforcing mesh.

Finishing layer

The finishing layer is not much different from the starting ball of putty. The same tools are required to carry out the procedure. However, the main difference between these two types of putty is the thickness of the application layer: the starting layer is about fifty millimeters, and the finishing layer is two millimeters.

The ball must be smooth and free from defects. After completing the procedure, the base will need to be left to dry for several days.

Grout

After the finishing ball of putty has completely dried, the base will need to be rubbed down. Grouting should be done carefully, since after it there should be no defects or flaws left on the surface.

In order to identify roughness and defects, you need to use a lamp. The correctness of the putty work affects how easy it will be to paint the walls later, since all the slightest roughness will be visible during painting.

In order for the putty for painting walls to last a long time, you must follow the following recommendations from experts:

1. There are different types of mixtures: adhesive, oil, epoxy, water-based. It is necessary to choose the composition in such a way that it not only matches the paint, but also makes it easy to work with.
2. The putty should be diluted according to the instructions on the package.
3. If the surface has many defects and its leveling involves the use of a large amount of putty, then in order to avoid cracking it is recommended to use a reinforcing mesh.
4. If there is mold in the room, then when diluting the mixture, you need to replace half of the water with a fungicide.
5. When puttingtying, the spatula should be held at an acute angle.
6. The priming solution should be purchased with antiseptic agents.

Preparing walls for painting involves their high-quality leveling, which is carried out in several stages. One of the stages of this process is puttying (puttying). Let's see how you can perform this operation yourself in order to get a perfectly even base for applying paint to it.

Putty - different in cost and properties

Puttying makes it possible to make walls smooth and even. It is on such bases that any coloring composition is applied with truly high quality. In addition, putty gives wall surfaces greater strength, thereby strengthening them. Due to this, the durability of the coating increases several times. This means that we won’t need to paint the walls again anytime soon.

All putty compositions are divided into three groups. They come in gypsum, cement and polymer. The first ones have an affordable price and do not shrink. Their disadvantage is insufficient moisture resistance. It makes no sense to use them in rooms with constantly high humidity, since the coating quickly loses its performance characteristics. Gypsum mixtures are sold in the form of dry compositions. The home DIYer only needs to dilute them with water, following the manufacturer's instructions. Let us highlight a few more advantages of gypsum compositions:

• environmental cleanliness;
• fire safety;
• high noise and heat insulation;
• plastic;
• quick drying of the mixture after application to the wall.

Cement putties are not afraid of moisture. But after application they shrink strongly. Another disadvantage of such mixtures is their low elasticity. At the same time, cement compositions have a lot of useful properties. They tolerate temperature changes without problems and are suitable for processing various bases, from concrete to stone and brick.

Polymer putty is highly elastic and durable. It applies well to any surface and does not shrink. This putty allows you to level walls with your own hands in any room. Moreover, its use guarantees an ideal result. The only drawback of such mixtures is the high price.

Types of putties - each stage of work has its own mixture

Puttying walls for painting is carried out in several stages. For each of them, certain types of putty are used. From this point of view they are divided into:

• starting;
• finishing;
• universal.

Starter compositions, called leveling compositions, have a large grain size, good adhesion and excellent strength. They are usually used to prepare walls for painting after they have been plastered. The starting mixture should be applied in a layer of 3 to 20 mm. Here everything depends on the condition of the foundation (the presence of elevation differences and other defects on it).

Finishing putty (decorative) has less strength than starting putty. It is used for final leveling. Using finishing compounds, minor defects (for example, small scratches) are removed from the walls. Such mixtures are applied in several thin layers. The total thickness of the coating should not exceed 2–4 mm. The finishing putty is described as having a fine-grained structure. It can be easily rubbed onto walls made of any materials.

There are also universal putties. They combine the capabilities of starting and decorative mixtures. They are allowed to perform both initial and final alignment. But experts say that in terms of operational potential, such compositions are worse than the starting and finishing ones. In addition, universal putties are expensive. And they can only be used on walls with minor defects. In case of significant altitude differences, universal compositions will not be of any use.

Almost any modern starting or finishing putty can be purchased dry or in a completely ready-to-use form. Mixtures diluted in advance with water or special solutions are convenient to use. You don't need to add anything to them. Open the container with putty and start working. But ready-made compositions also have serious drawbacks. They quickly harden in storage containers, shrink, and are expensive. There is more hassle with dry mixtures. At the same time, their low price and the possibility of long-term storage make them quite popular.

Principles of leveling walls for painting - how to take into account all the nuances?

Correctly puttingtying any walls is not so difficult if you know the specifics of such an operation in advance. First of all, we stock up on the necessary tools:

• A set of spatulas of different sizes. The set must include both large (up to 50 cm) and small tools. The latter are needed for processing hard-to-reach areas of walls.
• Electric drill with mixer attachment. This tool allows you to mix dry starting or finishing putty in water. We will not be able to mix a high-quality composition manually. There will probably be lumps in it. If we work with ready-made putties, a drill will not be needed.
• Brush and roller. They are necessary for applying primer to the walls. Note! Priming is not a mandatory step in preparing walls for painting. But it's better to do it. Then the wall will have high adhesion to paint. In addition, priming increases the strength of the surface being decorated, which is important.
• Level – laser (ideally) or regular alcohol level. Without this tool, we will not be able to properly level the wall surface.
• Rule. The main working tool in situations where walls have serious differences in height. The rule ensures fast and high-quality application of large volumes of leveling (starting) mass. It is optimal to carry out such work with a long metal rule.
• Hand sander, sandpaper. Grouting of the leveled surface is carried out with coarse (starting putty) and fine (finishing) sandpaper. The process of using them becomes much easier if you have a manual skinner - a simple device with clamps for installing and fixing the skin.

The puttying operation begins with preparing the walls. We remove stains of soot, old paint, and grease from them. We tap the plaster. If the old layer does not hold up very well, we completely clean the wall. In cases where only individual plastered areas are coming off, we knock down only them. Then we vacuum the wall and apply primer to it. It is most convenient to do this with a roller. One layer of soil is enough. The main thing is that it completely covers the wall. We begin work on filling the surface for painting at normal room temperatures. Do not putty on frozen walls.

After preparing the surface, you can begin the main operation. Puttying in most cases is carried out in two stages. First we level the wall with the starting mixture, then with the finishing mixture. When using universal compositions, puttying is also performed in two stages.

We putty according to the rules - everything will work out!

We mount a painting mesh on the wall. It is used when there are noticeable differences in heights. If the defects are minor, you can do without a mesh. Then mix the starting putty (if you used a dry compound). Advice: we prepare the composition for work in small portions, then it will not have time to harden in the bucket, and we can safely treat the wall with it. To apply the putty, use a large spatula. It should be held at an angle of 30°. Immediately distribute the leveling compound over the surface. You can create a layer up to 1.5 cm thick at a time. We wait for it to dry. If necessary, repeat the operation.

To prevent bumps and noticeable transitions from appearing on the wall, we apply the second and subsequent layers of the composition overlapping.

As a result, we will get a leveled surface on which, no matter how hard we try, there will be stripes from the working tool (spatula). It's not scary. Subsequently, we will hide them using the finishing mixture. Nuance. We process corners and hard-to-reach places with a special corner spatula. Complete drying of the starting coating occurs in 20–30 hours (it all depends on the type of putty used). After this time, we begin finishing the wall.

The final leveling is carried out with two spatulas. The technology is simple. Using a small tool, apply a small amount of finishing material onto a large spatula. Apply the putty last (as evenly as possible) to the wall, creating a layer up to 1.5–2 mm thick. The surface can be treated with the finishing composition several times. Until we have a perfectly smooth wall. The final work is sanding the leveled surface. After its completion, we can safely begin painting the walls!

During the Soviet era, painting walls with various paints was widespread. Painted walls could be found in government offices, hospitals, kindergartens and schools, as well as in the apartments of city residents - mainly in kitchens and bathrooms. Their quality left much to be desired. Later, wallpaper and tiles replaced paint. Today, the fashion for painted walls is returning, but the requirements for appearance and, accordingly, the technology for preparing the surface for painting have changed.

When finishing, before applying paint to the walls, it is necessary to carry out putty (putty) work. They will help smooth out all defects and level the surface to perfection. During subsequent painting, this is even more important than when wallpapering, since thick wallpaper can more or less hide minor flaws, but paint cannot. Paint adheres better to a smooth surface, and no defects of the pre-applied plaster appear even in bright, oblique lighting. In addition, a flat surface allows you to use paint more economically.

How to choose putty for painting

The final result is directly affected by the choice of putty composition. It can be a ready-made solution or a dry mixture that must first be diluted. Depending on the main component, leveling mixtures are cement, gypsum and polymer. To give them special strength and durability, glue, chalk and other additives are used. Thus, they differ in properties, structure and technical characteristics.

When choosing putty, you should first of all be guided by the purpose of the room. So, for the kitchen and bathroom you need to buy moisture-resistant compounds, and for the nursery or bedroom - environmentally friendly ones. The same goes for the paint itself. In addition, there are also materials for exterior finishing that have special properties.

Cement putty

Cement, or cement-sand putty, consists of construction cement and fine sand, sold in bags or 25-kilogram bags. This mixture is quite cheap, since all its components are available. Before use, dilute with water. It fits well on a concrete base and perfectly levels walls, ideal for facade work and wet rooms. The rough surface ensures good adhesion with water-dispersion paints.

But due to the unsightly grayish tint and coarse-grained structure, it is not suitable for subsequent painting of walls in the interior, only for tiles in the bathroom or kitchen. Among other things, it does not have proper elasticity and often cracks, which requires re-application of the solution. Therefore, in our case we will not consider it.

Gypsum putty

Often, more expensive gypsum putty is used to paint walls in the bedroom, living room and other dry rooms. After drying, it gives a perfectly smooth white surface. It can be painted with any paint or applied with artistic painting. The advantages of gypsum also include its environmental safety. A surface treated with such material absorbs excess moisture, and when the air is dry, on the contrary, it releases the required amount of moisture to the room.

There are starting, finishing and universal. The starting one contains large particles of minerals. It is used as a leveling mixture for rough finishing of walls. If the surface has heavily damaged areas and large differences, then the putty layer can reach 5 cm. But it is cheaper to level out such large irregularities with plaster. Usually the starting layer of putty does not exceed 20 mm.

A thin layer of finishing putty is applied over the rough. It has a fine-grained structure, masks all minor imperfections that the leveling layer could not hide, and provides a smooth white surface. If the plastered wall is fairly smooth, then the finishing putty can be applied directly to it, bypassing the starting layer. After several layers of finishing putty, the wall can be painted.

A universal putty can perform the function of both starting and finishing putty, or replace them. But most often it is used to seal holes, cracks and joints on plasterboard sheets. It is a ready-made thick finely dispersed solution. Waterproof universal putty suitable for wet rooms.

The most famous manufacturer of gypsum putties is Knauff. Its assortment includes various types of mixtures. Also popular on the building materials market are putties Rotband, Perlfix, Fugenfüller, Osnovit Ekonsilk and others.

Polymer putty

Polymer textured putty, made on the basis of latex or acrylic resins, is ideal for the finishing layer in finishing work. This material is quite expensive, but high quality. Sold as a ready-to-use mixture, packaged in plastic buckets. It takes a long time to dry, but in the end it gives a perfectly smooth surface on which the paint applies easily, without sagging.

Typically suitable for universal use, although polymer-based starting and finishing formulations are also available. Mineral additives (chalk, quartz sand) give the material additional elasticity. The mixture is applied to the wall in a layer of no more than 3 mm. After hardening, the surface becomes resistant to moisture. But the finished composition has a short shelf life, so it is better not to buy polymer putty in advance.

Thus, craftsmen consider gypsum putty to be the best option for painting. It has excellent characteristics, easily copes with the tasks and does not require the use of additional materials. But there are also minor drawbacks. Firstly, you need to store gypsum putty in a dry room, as moisture makes it damp. Secondly, you need to work with it quickly enough, since the material quickly sets.

There is also a good putty based on non-woven fabric. It has a good moisture-resistant effect.

Features of the puttying process

Putty for painting refers to painting work. Their result is the elimination of small cracks and shallow recesses, smoothing out visible and invisible plaster deposits. After puttying, the walls can be painted in any color: from light to dark. This is possible because the putty has a white tint, invisible under light paint.

Before starting work, it is necessary to assess its volume. To do this, you need to measure the area of ​​the walls, taking into account the existing protrusions and niches, as well as vertical deviations and “propeller”.
Measurements are made not only with a tape measure, but also with the help of a level and a rule. Sometimes, to identify humps and holes, nails are hammered in the corners or screws are screwed in and the cords are pulled on them clearly one above the other. By moving sequentially along the wall with the rule, you can identify irregularities.

It should be borne in mind that the consumption of putty depends not only on the area of ​​the walls, but also on their condition. In Soviet houses, rough finishing was done using coarse-grained plaster, therefore, in order to cover the protruding sand, it is necessary to carefully putty the entire surface. The number of layers required is determined by the quality of the composition.

Even a novice repairman can handle puttying walls for painting; the main thing is to choose the right material, select the necessary tools (spatulas - stainless steel, “spatula”, external corner, internal corner, rubber, as well as trowels, brushes, sanding floats for replaceable mesh) , be patient and follow instructions carefully. The quality of the finish depends on the combination of these components.

Application technology

1. The surface is cleaned of old paint or wallpaper, as well as plaster that is peeling off. Poorly adhering plaster produces a booming sound when you tap the wall with a hammer.

2. The swollen areas are cleaned and the cracks and recesses are filled with fresh gypsum plaster or starting putty solution. Very deep holes are sealed in several layers. The joints between the sheets are sealed. Before this, all holes, dents and cracks are covered with reinforcing fiberglass mesh. For very uneven walls, it is recommended to use beacons. The more there are, the smoother the surface will be. The first two stages cannot be ignored, because the final result largely depends on them.

3. A layer of deep penetration primer is applied. The soil holds back crumbling and ensures better adhesion of the future layer of putty to the surface. It is most convenient to apply it to the wall with a wide nap roller, and in hard-to-reach places - with a brush. Concrete absorbs moisture very well, so it is covered with several layers of soil. After this stage, the surface must dry thoroughly.

4. The putty is diluted in a container with a wide neck using (or a regular electric drill with attachments) according to the instructions in an amount that can be produced in 20 minutes. It is quite difficult to calculate this amount, so it is better to use a ready-made mixture. If you do thin the putty, mix it thoroughly, let it sit for 15 minutes, and then mix again. After this, the composition is ready for use.

5. The material is first applied in a small amount to a small spatula, and then thrown onto a wide spatula. The work is done with light, but broad strokes, movements from left to right and from top to bottom.

Attention! Movements should be uniform. With too much or too little pressure, new humps are formed.

For a large surface, use a spatula with a width of 56-60 cm, for hard-to-reach places - 10 cm. To ensure an extremely even installation, the spatula must be held at an angle of 45° and periodically turned over. Particular attention is paid to the corners - there should be no lumps or smudges in them. To process corners, special 25-centimeter corner spatulas are used. Perforated corners are recessed on the outer corners.

6. Several layers are applied. Each of them must dry naturally before applying the next one. The drying time is indicated in the instructions for use of the material, but it is better to verify this experimentally.

7. After applying the composition, until final setting, the surface is smoothed using a wet spatula or a special stainless trowel (plaster float). This procedure removes stains from the spatula and gives the wall maximum smoothness.

8. After the last layer has dried, it is used to grout the walls. It can be replaced with fine-grained sandpaper or a special grouting mesh.

It should be borne in mind that although the repair itself is quite a dirty business, when carrying out putty work, cleanliness is very important. In addition to thoroughly cleaning the surface, it is necessary to remove all debris from the floor and use only a clean bucket and a perfectly shiny mixer to dilute the dry composition. This is necessary so that any debris that gets on the spatula does not spoil the work.

Typically, plastering walls for painting takes several days. The finished work should be measured vertically and horizontally. To do this, you need to bring a portable lamp to the wall and point it at the plane. Shadows will indicate existing stains and recesses. A good result is considered to be the presence of no more than two millimeter holes per 1 m² of surface. More flaws will be noticeable. It’s better to try and avoid any defects at all.

If you still couldn’t avoid defects, don’t worry: everything can be fixed before applying paint. The stains must be processed again with a sanding mesh or sandpaper, and small recesses must be puttied.