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How to make a hood in a private house with your own hands?

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In order for a private house to receive an influx of fresh air, as well as remove already polluted air, it is necessary to install a ventilation system - an exhaust hood, which can be natural, forced or combined. But regardless of the choice, ventilation will perform its function only if preliminary calculations are made that take into account the size of the room and the features of the future system.

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Natural ventilation

At the design stage of a house, a natural ventilation scheme must be drawn up. The principle of its operation is to ventilate the house due to the natural circulation of the air mass. In order for the system to perform its function properly, the influx of fresh air and the removal of already humid air must be carried out through different rooms. Typically, the space through which air enters is called dry, and the outlet space is called wet.

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You can ventilate your house in four ways:

• channel, when the house is equipped with vertically located channels.
• ductless. This method can be used for residential buildings, but it is more suitable for industrial buildings.
• permanent. In this case, the premises are provided with a significant air flow, which enters through air ducts.
• periodic, when “new” air enters at certain intervals.

To increase the level of air exchange in the house, special fans are installed on the exhaust ducts, which can operate either continuously or at set times. Accordingly, such equipment requires a connection to the power supply network.

Advantages

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It does not require the installation of expensive equipment, and system breakdowns are automatically eliminated. But even with fans installed on the exhaust ducts, the circulation system naturally consumes electricity in small quantities. Consequently, money is saved. Another advantage of the system is its compatibility with other types of air exchange.

Flaws

This type of ventilation in a wooden house directly depends on weather conditions, which directly affects the ventilation of the building. As a rule, insufficient supply of fresh air manifests itself in the form of fungus, as well as the accumulation of toxic substances that can come from building materials. Thus, it, not combined with other systems, will not always be able to ensure proper air exchange in the house.

Forced exhaust

Since the dependence of natural ventilation on external climatic conditions does not allow the premises to be fully ventilated, the installation of additional equipment is necessary to ensure air circulation in a private home. Air exchange carried out using special installed devices, as well as components for them, is called forced ventilation.

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According to the principle of operation, it is divided into:

• supply and exhaust, carried out using special equipment. Another variation of this method is the installation of recycling equipment. In this case, the exhaust air passes through filters, is partially mixed with street air, and then, already purified, is returned to the room;
• supply air with the possibility of heating. To operate the system according to this principle, a recuperator is required, which uses exhaust but already heated air;
• supply air with cooling. Air conditioning is required here;
• supply and exhaust. The most common system for private homes. The circulation of air masses is ensured by the installed equipment in combination with elements of natural circulation. This air exchange scheme is relatively easy to install and quite effective.

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However, the operation of the forced system is carried out by connecting its devices to the power supply network. In addition, the design and calculations of the system are carried out at the stage of drawing up the house construction plan. All components of forced ventilation perform different functions, but the main and only task of all elements is the supply of fresh air to the premises and the removal of already used air to the street.

The compulsory system includes the following elements and equipment:

• grilles to protect ventilation ducts from rodents, insects and debris;
• filters that prevent dust and pollen from entering the house;
• air valves that regulate the flow of air supplied to the house. In winter, protect the system from icy gusts of wind;
• fans used to create a continuous flow in the ventilation ducts;
• sound absorbers ensuring silent operation of the system;
• heaters that heat the incoming air;
• ventilation ducts that allow air to move.

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How to properly install a hood in a kitchen in a private home

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Preparatory work for installing a hood in the kitchen begins with measurements of the room (the installation was discussed in more detail in, and how to choose the right one - in). After all, the obtained values ​​will affect the choice of device model.

First of all, the cubic volume of the room is calculated by multiplying the length, width and height of the kitchen. The result is then multiplied by a factor of ten. This value determines the number of air changes per hour established by current regulations. The result obtained will be the minimum power required for the measured kitchen.

Since all exhaust devices require electricity, the installation locations of the devices are equipped with sockets.

Preparing a niche for a kitchen hood is also an important factor. After all, a centralized gas pipe can be installed in such a way that in the future it will interfere with the installation of equipment on the wall. The way out of the situation is to install brackets that will allow you to leave the necessary space between the wall and the hood. In addition, the wall should not have obvious defects and should be strong enough to support the kitchen exhaust system.

To install the equipment you will need:

• building level;
• roulette;
• perforator;
• Screwdriver Set;
• jigsaw;
• hacksaw for metal;
• silicone sealant.

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Manufacturers of hoods provide consumers with three main modifications of devices:

• hanging;
• built-in;
• dome or fireplace.

Also, according to the method of air purification, they are divided into devices that remove exhaust air to the street, and models that operate in recirculation mode.

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When the device operates in recirculation mode, the hood does not emit pollution into the street, but passes air through the filter and returns it back into the room.

Since wall-hung models operate in recirculation mode (), they are more suitable for small kitchens. This is explained by the fact that conventional filtration is not able to cope with air purification in large rooms.

Hanging hoods equipped with filters that need to be changed periodically. The frequency of replacements is indicated in the technical documentation of the device.

Among the positive qualities of the devices are their low price, the ability to be attached to a kitchen cabinet, and the lack of additional components, since hanging equipment does not require an air exhaust system.

Built-in technology practically hidden from view and serves as an air supply. The body of such a device is mounted directly into the kitchen cabinet, and only the air intake remains outside, which basically has a retractable panel.

The air duct of a built-in exhaust device can be led outside either through the ventilation system already existing in the house or through a wall or roof.

The most expensive model range, but at the same time the most powerful, is considered to be the fireplace or dome class. Hoods in this series not only provide stable air purification, but also become pronounced elements of room design. In addition to factory production, dome models can be individually designed.

Installing a kitchen hood over a gas stove

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How to properly make a kitchen hood over a stove with your own hands in a private home depends on the shape and size of the device. At the same time, the installation of an electrical appliance is also influenced by the location and dimensions of the kitchen unit modules.

There are three installation options:

• built-in;
• with fastening to the bottom of the cabinet;
• with wall mounting.

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To install the device in a cabinet, the lower shelf of the kitchen module must first be removed. Subsequently, it may either not be installed at all, or a hole is made in it using a jigsaw that is suitable in size with a hood.

On the shelf located in the middle of the cabinet, holes are made for the electrical cable and air duct. Then the body of the device is applied to the shelf to be fixed and the fastening points are marked with a pencil. Next, the hood is attached using self-tapping screws.

The device mounted under the kitchen cabinet differs from the built-in version only in that the hood body remains outside. If desired, it is covered with a false panel or any other finishing material using double-sided tape or glue.

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When attaching the hood to the wall, first of all, mark the mounting points through the rear panel of the device. Holes are drilled along the marks, dowels at least 5 cm long are inserted into them. Then self-tapping screws are screwed into the two upper holes so that the hood can be hung freely on them. After checking the reliability of the structure, without removing the device, screw in the remaining screws and tighten the top ones.

Duct connection

Before connecting the air duct to the hood, you need to decide on the choice of material. There are two types of pipes for removing exhaust air from the room (more details):

• corrugated, which are made of aluminum. Although the installation of this type of pipe does not require additional adapters, the sound insulation properties of corrugated products are very low. However, noise during operation of the hood can be reduced by tensioning the pipe.
• plastic, having a cross-section both rectangular and round. In the latter, much less contaminants accumulate during operation, and the resistance is lower than in rectangular pipes. To install this class you will need L-shaped adapters.

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But regardless of the material of manufacture and cross-section, the diameter of the air duct must coincide with the inlet of the hood. With a smaller pipe size, the kitchen hood will work in increased mode, which will lead to rapid engine failure.

The installed air duct should not completely block the opening of the natural ventilation shaft. To do this, a special grille is purchased and installed, the valve of which closes when the hood is turned on, and opens after the device has finished operating. This mode of operation allows the natural air circulation system to operate fully.

Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet

The task of installed ventilation in the bathroom is to clean the room from various odors and eliminate high humidity.

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Since the operation of a natural hood is completely dependent on external climatic factors, it will not always be able to cope with its task. In addition, the absence of special grilles on the outside of the ventilation ducts makes it possible for small rodents and insects to enter the house. However, the natural air circulation system has its advantages, which include simplicity of design and relatively low price. The absence of complex mechanical elements in a natural hood predicts long and uninterrupted operation.

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Ventilation ducts for the bathroom are selected with a diameter of at least 50 cubic meters per hour, and for the toilet an air duct with a width of 30 cubic meters per hour is suitable. The ability to remove odors and moist air from the bathroom is provided by a forced ventilation system. Its operation is carried out using installed fans, which can be with bearings or bushings. Devices with bushings are much cheaper than fans with bearings.

Forced exhaust fans installed in the bathroom can operate either from a light switch or have a separate power point. Device manufacturers also offer fans with built-in humidity sensors. In this case, the system begins to operate when the humidity in the room reaches a certain level. There are also models that are equipped with motion sensors that allow you to activate air circulation when a person enters the room. This method of ventilation is quite simple in its organization, but like the entire natural ventilation system, it is directly dependent on weather conditions.

A more effective method is a system that uses two pipes, 8–15 cm wide. In this case, the supply channel is mounted so that the lower part of the pipe is located at a height of 20–40 cm from the floor. The upper end should be fixed on the street so that the gap to the ground is 40–60 cm.

The lower end of the exhaust pipe is mounted directly under the ceiling, and the outer part is led through the ceilings to the roof and fixed 30–60 cm from it.

How to make a duct box

Some air duct models do not fit into the overall design of the room. The way out of this situation is to hide the channel in a special box.

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Depending on the material used, decorative designs are:

• plastic;
• wooden;
• steel;
• made of MDF, chipboard or plasterboard.

However, when installing the box, it is taken into account that it will constantly be exposed to burning, fat and other by-products that arise during cooking. It follows that the structure must be washed and cleaned well. Only in this case will the decorative box fit into the overall design of the room.

Video: how to install a hood and ventilation through a wall in a private (including wooden) house with your own hands

Ventilation, both forced and natural, will perform its function only if the entire system is organized correctly. And to do this, it is necessary to take into account the size of the room and the climatic conditions in which the system will operate.

Natural ventilation channels

For effective ventilation, Each room of the house must have two ventilation devices: one is for air supply, the other is for removing air from the room.

Every room in a house or apartment equipped with a supply and exhaust natural ventilation device according to one of three options:

1. Supply valve in a window or outside wall for air flow. Transfer hole into an adjacent room with an exhaust duct for air removal (hole in the door or internal wall, partition).
2. For air flow - overflow hole from an adjacent room with an inlet valve, and exhaust duct
3. Inlet valve for inflow, And exhaust duct ventilation to remove air.

Check whether in the house or apartment where you currently live, whether all rooms have supply and exhaust ventilation devices?!

In which rooms should exhaust ventilation ducts be installed?

Natural ventilation exhaust ducts must be provided from the following areas of the house:

• Sanitary facilities - bathroom, toilet, laundry room.
• Kitchens.
• Dressing room, storage room - if the doors of the premises open into the living room. If the doors open onto a corridor (hall, kitchen), then you can do one of two things: arrange an exhaust duct from the premises or install a supply valve in a wall or window.
• The boiler room must have both a ventilation duct and a supply valve.
• From rooms separated from rooms with a ventilation duct by more than two doors.
• On the floor above the first, if there are entrance doors from the stairs to the floor, ventilation ducts are made from the rooms indicated above, and/or from the corridor, hall.
• On the floor above the first, in the absence of entrance doors from the stairs to the floor, a ventilation duct and a supply valve are installed in each room of the floor.

In other areas of the house that do not have natural ventilation exhaust ducts, be sure to install a supply valve in a window or wall and a flow hole into the adjacent room.

In addition, natural ventilation exhaust ducts are used for ventilation:

• Sewer pipe riser.

Building rules (clause 6.5.8 SP 60.13330.2016) require that in residential buildings, for premises housing gas equipment (gas boilers, hot water heaters, kitchen stoves, etc.), provide mechanical forced exhaust ventilation and natural or mechanical forced ventilation.

Location and dimensions of ventilation ducts

The minimum side size of the natural ventilation channel is 10 cm., and the minimum cross-sectional area is 0.016 m 2., which approximately corresponds to the diameter of a standard ventilation duct pipe - 150 mm.

A channel of minimal size will provide air exhaust in a volume of 30 m 3 /hour with a vertical pipe length of more than 3 m. To increase the performance of the hood, the cross-sectional area of ​​the channel or the length of the channel is increased. Channels less than 2 long m. do not provide the necessary intensity of natural ventilation.

In practice, the length of the ventilation duct on a floor is usually determined by design considerations - the number and height of the upper floors located above, the height of the attic, the length of the pipe above the roof. On the floor, the length of all channels must be the same. This is done so that the traction force in each channel on the floor is approximately the same.

The cross-sectional dimensions of the channels on the floor are often made the same, but for design reasons - it’s more convenient. The performance of the ventilation channel in a particular room on the floor is adjusted by choosing the size of the ventilation grille.

Ventilation ducts from the premises of the house on different floors are placed side by side, combining them into a block of ventilation ducts.

For design reasons, they try to lay several ventilation ducts from rooms on the same floor side by side, in one place - to create a block of ventilation ducts.

A block of ventilation ducts in stone houses is usually placed inside the load-bearing internal wall of the house or attached to the wall.

The block is laid out from masonry materials, for example, brick. In brickwork, it is convenient to make channels with a cross-section that is a multiple of the size of the brick, taking into account the thickness of the joints - 140x140 mm. (1/2 x 1/2 brick, 196 cm 2) or 140x270 mm. (1/2 x 1 brick, 378 cm 2)

Double-channel expanded clay concrete ventilation block 390x190x188 mm. Flow area of ​​one channel 168 cm 2
Concrete blocks for laying ventilation ducts in a private house. Block height 33 cm., width 25 cm., wall thickness 4 cm. The flow area of ​​one channel is 12x17 cm. (204 cm 2)

They produce hollow concrete blocks specially designed for laying ventilation ducts.

A block of ventilation ducts made of masonry materials must be supported on a foundation or on a reinforced concrete floor.

In other cases, for example, in wooden or frame houses, a block of ventilation ducts is assembled from plastic or galvanized steel pipes. The block of pipes is covered with a box.

How to combine several channels into one channel

In a private house, the number of channels is small, so there is no need to combine air flows from several channels (rooms or floors) into one, as is often done in apartment buildings. Each natural ventilation channel in a private house should begin in the room and end at the head on the roof. Any combination of two or more channels impairs ventilation performance.

In some cases, there is still a need to combine several channels, to combine them into one common natural ventilation channel.

Read:

Ventilation channel performance

Performance of a single exhaust ventilation channel with a cross section of 12x17 cm.(204 cm 2) from concrete blocks depending on the channel height and room temperature:

Capacity of natural ventilation channels with a cross section of 12 x 17 cm.(204 cm 2) depending on the channel height and room temperature (at an outside air temperature of 12 o C)

To determine performance for intermediate channel heights, plot the channel height versus performance graph.

Similar tables can be found for ventilation ducts that are made of other materials.

However, for ventilation ducts of the same cross-section (204 cm 2), but made from other materials, the performance will differ slightly from that indicated in the table.

For a channel of a different cross-section, the performance value from the table can be proportionally increased or decreased.

To increase the performance of a ventilation channel of the same height, it is necessary proportionally increase the cross-sectional area of ​​the channel. To do this, for example, choose a concrete block with a larger hole, or use two or three channels of the above size to ventilate one room.

Calculation of natural ventilation of a private house

The building regulations specify the minimum required capacity of natural ventilation ducts. Typically, people feel better when more fresh air is supplied to the room than specified in the standards. The performance of the natural ventilation channel very much depends on atmospheric and other variable factors (air temperature inside and outside, wind pressure and direction, resistance to air flow into the room). All this suggests that for a private house there is no point in carefully performing calculations accurately. I recommend rounding the calculation results towards greater productivity of natural ventilation channels. During operation, if necessary, the channel capacity can be easily reduced.

Calculation of natural ventilation is carried out in order to determine the size of ventilation channels based on the volume of air removed.

When determining the volume of air removed through natural ventilation ducts, it is taken into account that air enters rooms with supply valves from the street, then this air flows into rooms with exhaust ducts, and is removed through the ducts again to the street.

Calculation is being carried out for each floor at home in the following order:

1. Guided by the standards (see), determine the amount of the minimum volume of air that should come from the street for ventilation all rooms with supply valves - Q p, m 3 /hour.
2. According to the standards, the amount of the minimum volume of air that must be go outside for ventilation all premises equipped with an exhaust ventilation duct - Q in, m 3 /hour.
3. Compare the calculated minimum values ​​of air flow from the street (Q p, m 3 /hour) and going outside (Q in, m 3 /hour). Usually one of the quantities turns out to be greater than the other. The larger of the two quantities is taken as the minimum design capacity of all exhaust ventilation channels on the floor— Q r, m 3 /hour.
4. Based on the vertical dimensions of the house, the height of the natural ventilation channel on the floor is determined.
5. Knowing the height of the ventilation channel, and the overall estimated minimum performance of all channels on the floor (Q p, m 3 /hour), According to the table (see above), the total number of standard channels made of concrete blocks is selected. The total performance of the selected number of standard channels must be no less than the value of Q p, m 3 / hour.
6. The selected number of standard ducts are distributed between the rooms of the house, which must be equipped with exhaust ventilation ducts. When distributing, take into account the need to ensure standard air exchange in each individual room with a ventilation duct.

An example of calculating the natural ventilation of a private house

For example, let’s calculate natural ventilation in a one-story house with a total floor area of ​​120 m 2. The house has five living rooms with a total area of ​​90 m 2, kitchen, bathroom and toilet, as well as a dressing room (storage room) with an area of ​​4.5 m 2. Room height - 3 m. The house is made with natural ventilation of the underground space through a ventilation duct. Height of ventilated space under the floor 0.3 m. We use concrete blocks to install ventilation channels - see above.

Fan at the entrance to the natural ventilation channel

Continuation: for the next one

The issue of ventilation of premises with the advent of plastic windows has become relevant due to the almost complete sealing of buildings. In cold conditions, this is not so bad, but in an unventilated room, mold, mildew, and pathogenic bacteria grow and it becomes unsuitable for comfortable living.

When building a private house with your own hands, at the design stage you can and should consider how it will be ventilated. After completion of construction work, solving this problem will be difficult, and in some cases impossible.

Types of ventilation

Ventilation is divided into three types:

Natural ventilation

occurs due to the property of warm layers of air to rise above cold ones. It involves laying ventilation ducts in the walls of the house through which air circulates. For a fireplace or stove, the air duct is made separately. The pipe should rise above the ridge, this will give additional traction.

The ventilation duct must be at least one and a half brick thick, and its cross-section must exceed 140 mm in order to avoid the reverse draft effect. 100 mm horizontal bends are made into the rooms, using plastic pipes.

The disadvantages of natural ventilation are the dependence on weather conditions - both temperature and pressure, as well as the low performance of the system. Its use makes sense in buildings made of expanded clay concrete, foam concrete, brick and wood, provided the ambient air is clean.

Suitable for small private low-rise houses, baths, saunas, outbuildings. Below is a typical ventilation diagram in a private house.

Forced or supply and exhaust ventilation

It is used in cases where the air needs to be cleaned of odors, dirt and dust particles, as well as in rooms with “non-breathable” walls made of concrete with polystyrene, SIP and 3D panels, sandwich and vacuum panels, in all types of frame houses. Supply ventilation uses a fan to create a pressure difference, a filter for cleaning the air entering the house and a recuperator, a device for heating the incoming flow.

It is recommended to use a different fan for each room in the house. For garages and boiler rooms, it is necessary to make a separate hood to avoid harmful substances from entering other rooms. The most intense ventilation should be in the kitchen, since the air there not only heats up, but also has a characteristic smell.

Mixed ventilation

Used when natural ventilation cannot provide sufficient air flow. As a rule, the hood is installed in rooms where condensation collects, the air is polluted, or where it is necessary to remove the smell - in the bathroom, basement, cellar, toilet, boiler room, as well as in the kitchen.

Usually, with a mixed ventilation device in private houses, only air inflow is forced, and outflow occurs naturally, or only part of the premises is ventilated. The use of a mixed ventilation system in large private wooden brick, foam block and stone houses is also justified.

Sanitary standards

Fresh air consumption per healthy adult is about 10 m3 per hour. If there is no oxygen flow, the well-being of people in the room worsens - drowsiness and headaches appear. This is due to the increased concentration of carbon dioxide in the air.

According to the standards in force since the 50s of the last century, for rooms up to 20 m2 with a ceiling height below 3 meters, the air composition must be completely renewed within an hour, that is, the air exchange rate is at least 20 * 3 = 60 m3 per hour . If the volume of the room exceeds 60 m3, then in a simplified form the air exchange rate is considered to be 3 m3/hour per 1 m3 of room volume. For toilets the norm is 50 m3/hour, for bathrooms 25 m3/hour, and for kitchens 90 m3/hour.

When building private houses, many people think that they will get by with ventilating the windows and do not do ventilation in the hope of saving money. Make no mistake about this - the atmosphere in the building in such cases will be very unhealthy. As a result, the treatment of respiratory diseases may cost significantly more money than what is saved.

In addition, there is such a radioactive inert gas - radon, which accumulates on the first floors of buildings. Also, if ventilation is not carried out regularly, the room will have variable humidity and temperature.

Features of installation in various rooms

When installing ventilation in the kitchen, the following nuances should be taken into account:

• the width of the slab and the exhaust dome must correspond to each other;
• the air in the kitchen should be completely renewed 6-12 times per hour;
• the distance between the stove and the hood should be 60-90 cm.

In the bathroom, it is necessary to take into account the increased humidity in the room and based on this:

• there should be no supply openings to prevent steam from flowing from the bathroom into other rooms;
• all wiring must be moisture-resistant or corrugated, the contacts must be carefully insulated;
• It is recommended to install a gyrostat to automate the operation of exhaust ventilation.

• the hole for ventilation is made as high as possible, ideally on the ceiling;
• it is advisable to combine the switch for lighting and for the hood so that they turn on simultaneously;
• the exhaust power must ensure a system capacity of at least 50 m3 for a separate toilet, and for a bathroom combined with a bathroom - at least 75 m3;
• when the ventilation ducts of the toilet and bathroom are located at the same level, they are combined into one air duct.

In basements, both natural and forced ventilation are used. If the basement is small, up to 50 m2, then it is quite possible to get by with a natural air circulation option.

Criteria for correct ventilation arrangement

• air is discharged from the ventilation duct on the roof;
• Air intake in the forced system is made through a grille located at a level of 2-3 meters from the ground;
• air circulation is carried out from cleaner rooms to dirtier ones - from bedrooms and living rooms towards the kitchen, bathrooms, boiler rooms.
• forced ventilation in the kitchen is mandatory, especially where there are gas water heaters;
• All rooms in the building must be ventilated;
• the air in the house should not cool too quickly, there should be no strong drafts;
• Condensation should not form on the walls and ceilings, and odors from the premises should quickly disappear.

Based on the above criteria, a decision is made on the advisability of using forced, mixed or natural ventilation.

Photo of ventilation in a private house

Air circulation, when organizing a natural ventilation system, occurs due to the pressure difference in the ventilation shaft, due to which a draft arises that pushes the internal air out.

The efficiency of room ventilation with this type of ventilation device is influenced by the following factors:

• The pressure value at the outer and inner sections of the ventilation pipe. The traction power increases with the height of the exhaust duct.
• The temperature value outside the room and inside where the ventilation is located. Cooled air is heavier, so it pushes out the lighter air in the room below. As a result, the used air from inside rushes into the air duct.
• Condensation level in the room. Vapors are lighter than cool air, and therefore, at a stable temperature, they rise and exit through the air ducts.

In addition to the listed main factors, the ability of the system to cope with maintaining a comfortable microclimate in the building is also influenced by readings of atmospheric pressure, humidity and temperature.

When the temperature inside and outside is similar, the draft deteriorates noticeably, and excessive heating of the air masses outside can lead to reverse draft. In such a situation, only a high-height ventilation duct can save the situation.

The installation of natural ventilation in a wooden house, in buildings built of brick or aerated concrete, and in multi-storey buildings can significantly save costs, while the efficiency of air exchange does not suffer from this.

Exhaust air ducts and shafts in all structures are installed exclusively in partitions or taken outside. If installed outdoors, you will have to spend money on additional pipe insulation.

Advantages and disadvantages of natural ventilation

In residential construction, natural ventilation devices are installed taking into account the requirements of SNIP and the principles of modern eco-design. Despite compliance with standards, such devices have both positive and negative properties.

The positive points include:

• low cost of organizing natural ventilation;
• infrequent routine maintenance to keep the system normal;
• unlike forced systems, there is no noise;
• installation of ventilation devices does not cause complications even for beginners;
• it will take very little time to build a ventilation duct;
• no additional costs are required to support the functionality of the system;
• the service life of the system is not limited;
• natural ventilation is not an object of increased danger and does not cause emergency situations;
• These systems can be combined with forced ventilation.

Negative points include:

• these systems are not able to regulate the speed of the exhaust flow: with high humidity in the room, this feature causes the appearance of fungus or mold;
• poorly protected air supply devices do not retain dust, tiny insects and plant seeds, as a result of which more effort must be expended to maintain order in the room;
• installation of protective nets disrupts normal air circulation and cannot be a solution to this problem;
• in winter, when rooms are ventilated naturally, serious heat losses occur;
• dependence of the efficiency of the hood on the street temperature and wind strength.

How to calculate system performance

• Room area.
• The rate of complete exchange of air in a room in one hour.
• Standards for providing fresh air according to SANPIN per person (for normal living conditions, 30 m 3 / hour is taken into account).

The main condition for effective air circulation in a room is the equality of supply and exhaust volumes.

A step-by-step calculation algorithm will help determine the required volume of air for further selection of suitable equipment:

1. To get the full volume of air in the house, you need to add up the volume of all rooms. Based on the standards of air consumption in various rooms of the home and the volume indicators of these rooms, the average rate of complete air exchange should be derived.
2. Multiplying the resulting multiplicity by the total volume, we obtain the volume that is necessary for the intake and removal of air per hour.
3. Based on this indicator, the number and power of devices providing inflow and exhaust parameters are calculated. When making calculations, you must be guided by the instructions and technical characteristics of the devices used and the type of exhaust duct.

This calculation does not take into account changes in traction power in different climatic conditions. To obtain more accurate data, you will have to make more complex calculations.

The organization of natural ventilation in a frame house differs from the equipment of buildings made of logs or timber. In log houses, the level of natural inflow is higher than in frame houses (due to uneven shrinkage and the presence of gaps). Accordingly, to normalize the inflow in frame buildings, it will be necessary to additionally use mechanical devices.

Natural ventilation standards

Modern SNIPs regulate ventilation standards for residential premises based on the value of total air exchange in a building, and is measured in the number of times or cubic meters per hour.

The standards for one-story residential buildings are:

• permanent residential premises – 1 full exchange per hour;
• kitchen – from 60 m 3 /hour (hood);
• bathroom - at least 25 3 / hour (hood);
• other premises – 0.2 full exchange per hour.

In addition to these standards, the value of outdoor air flow per person should be taken into account. This figure is 30 3 / hour.

Standards for natural ventilation in a multi-storey building take into account the presence of additional rooms:

• laundry – 90 3 /hour;
• gym – 80 3/hour;
• dressing room - 0.2 full exchange per hour;
• gas boiler houses - 1 full exchange per hour + 100 3 / hour.

There are special requirements and standards for ventilation equipment for basements, technical floors and attics.

Components of natural ventilation technology

Before making natural ventilation in a private house with your own hands, you need to determine the characteristics and number of supply and exhaust elements, and understand the method and location of the correct installation of these devices.

The natural ventilation system is constructed from vertical exhaust pipes (can be internal or external), devices that provide an influx of outside air and horizontal exchange air ducts.

For correct installation of devices, calculation of ventilation standards must be carried out for each room in the building.

Supply valves

To ensure the supply of outside air into the room, supply valves are used. The choice of design of supply equipment depends on the needs of the room. The number of devices and their productivity is determined based on calculations.

It is recommended to place devices that provide inflow at a height of 1800-2000 mm from the floor. When installing the equipment, it is necessary to provide for a slight inclination of the valve inside the wall. The outer end of the valve should be lower than the inner end. This arrangement will protect the room from precipitation getting inside.

Optimal position of the supply valve.

Exhaust ducts

Special hollow cinder blocks or plastic pipes are used as air ducts in individual buildings. To regulate the exhaust air removal process, the following devices are used:

• Adjustable louvres, allowing you to reduce or increase the area of ​​the exhaust window;
• Deflectors. This device, installed on the top of the ventilation duct, allows you to increase traction power;
• Traction boosters. It has a more complex, umbrella design, but performs the same function as the deflector.

Deflector.

Ventilation ducts

Ventilation ducts are installed to remove used air from rooms with high humidity or special-purpose rooms. Several ventilation ducts are combined in one outlet shaft.

Ventilation ducts are located along the internal walls. When laying ducts, it is necessary to ensure the unhindered passage of building structures (floors, rafters) so as not to disturb the verticality of the air duct.

When installing natural ventilation in a private house with your own hands, it is advisable to take into account the features of a comfortable air exchange device for constructed and existing buildings.

On the design of natural ventilation in a house under construction

The basic principle of drawing up a scheme for natural ventilation in a private house during the construction process is the location of the shafts. They are installed exclusively in internal partitions to ensure that the main part of the pipe is kept warm. This principle allows you to obtain sufficient exhaust power, especially at subzero outside air temperatures.

It is recommended to use rectangular elements for the installation of exhaust shafts. They can significantly save the interior space of the house, but if there is free space, you can install round pipes that create a more intense flow.

Plastic water pipes are used as pipes for the air duct, because... When using corrugated products, weak noises occur, but are perceptible to the human ear.

When ducting ventilation pipes through an unheated attic floor onto the roof, it is recommended to take care of additional insulation of the air duct in this room.

When installing the exhaust pipe, it is recommended to maintain verticality; if this condition cannot be maintained, bypass slopes should be made with a deviation angle not exceeding 30 degrees. Each transition offset from the main vertical axis takes about 10% of the power.

You should pay close attention to the air duct connecting points. Inaccurate articulation of individual elements, foreign objects, and roughness complicate the process of efficient operation of the hood.

The higher the duct pipe, the more efficient the exhaust process. It is recommended to install the ventilation fungus removal 500 mm above the roof ridge.

Recommended height of ventilation ducts above the roof.

To modernize ventilation in an already built house

To increase traction power and provide additional protection against the penetration of insects and dust into the structure, it is advisable to install a deflector at the end of the air duct. This device helps increase power by 20%.

Deflector on the exhaust pipe.

In rooms with high humidity, it is recommended to install exhaust fans. This measure turns the natural system into a combined one, but at the same time the dependence on weather conditions disappears. In addition, the installed devices will help balance the humidity and temperature conditions in these places and prevent the materials from rotting.

When a building is equipped with plastic windows and ventilation is rarely carried out in frosty times, in order to save heat, the efficiency of air mass circulation drops sharply. In such a situation, it is recommended to equip windows with special ventilation valves, which make it possible to organize the flow of outside air, and at the same time arbitrarily regulate the flow.

Ventilation valve in the window.

Each room in country buildings or a country house has features that must be taken into account when installing ventilation devices.

In the bathroom

For a toilet and bathroom in a country building, it is necessary to provide the possibility of micro-ventilation through windows or doors.

In the bath

When installing ventilation in the bathhouse, it is necessary to place a supply duct at the location where the stove is installed. Street air penetrates from below, gradually displacing warm air to the ceiling, heating itself. The exhaust valve in the steam room is installed under the ceiling.

I open the valves when necessary to quickly dry the steam room or washing room.

In the boiler room

If a country house is heated with gas, it must have a separate room for placing equipment. A gas boiler is an object of increased danger, therefore the requirements for boiler hood equipment are quite serious.

The boiler room ventilation is mounted separately and does not cut into the common exhaust pipe; most often, an external pipe is used to get rid of smoke and gas.

Supply units are used to deliver outside air to boiler rooms. The weak point of the natural supply and exhaust system in boiler rooms is its dependence on wind power. In calm, windless weather, it is impossible to provide good traction.

Rotating ventilation ducts reduces efficiency by 10%.

In living rooms

To ensure effective air circulation between individual rooms in the house, it is necessary to install small holes or gaps between the door leaf and the floor at the bottom of the door leaves.

In the kitchen

When installing an exhaust ventilation grille above the stove, you need to place this device at a distance of 2 meters from the floor. This position of the hood allows you to effectively remove excess heat, soot and odors, preventing them from spreading throughout the room.

Video on the topic

A properly built ventilation system for a private home is a process that is not determined by a whim or desire to comply with the norms and trends of modern housing, but is an extremely necessary procedure for maintaining climate balance. Complexity plays a special role here: it is not enough to arrange ventilation in the kitchen and bathroom (as many do). Every room in the house needs ventilation.

Insufficient air circulation between indoors and outdoors can lead to air stagnation, the formation of fungus and mold, and allergic reactions, heaviness throughout the body and poor health will become dubious “bonuses” in a room without ventilation.

The main types used in private homes are natural and forced, the distinctive features of which are the use (forced) of additional equipment, or ventilation using physical processes (natural).

Advantages and disadvantages of natural ventilation

The main advantage of natural ventilation is the simplicity and low cost of constructing the system, while forced ventilation can boast of more efficient and high-quality work.

Along with a number of undeniable advantages - low cost, ease of implementation - natural ventilation also has disadvantages, which, by the way, are significant. Many construction experts talk about the ineffectiveness of such a system and here’s why:

1. According to building codes, the permissible temperature outside should not be lower than +5 degrees, otherwise the draft will increase and a large amount of cold air will begin to enter the house. According to some data, heat losses from natural ventilation in some cases reach 40% of the total volume.
2. The situation is diametrically opposite to the previous point: if it is too hot outside, air exchange is minimized until air circulation completely stops.
3. There is no way to treat the air coming from the street. The environmental situation in the country and in the world leaves much to be desired. Clean air is more of a luxury than an ordinary thing. Untreated and unpurified air can cause many problems.
4. Ventilation in the room has limited adjustment. While it is still possible to reduce air exchange by tightly closing windows and doors, it is no longer possible to significantly increase it.

Air conditioning is mandatory

To create an effective atmosphere in the rooms of a private house, it is necessary to resort to complexity: the best option would be a combination of natural circulation with technological developments in this area (fans, filters, etc.).

Why do you need a hood in a private house with a stove or fireplace?

If a stove or fireplace is used in the house not as a decorative element, but performs its direct duties - heating the room, you need to take care of natural ventilation in double. For complete combustion of the fuel, a sufficient amount of oxidizer (in this case oxygen) is necessary. If there is a shortage of fuel, the fuel will not burn completely, releasing carbon monoxide, which will enter the living space. Naturally, there is little pleasant or useful in this.

Ventilation device in a house with a fireplace

If there is not enough air flow, then in the warm season you can open the window - this will be enough. In winter, such a trick is unlikely to work, so even at the construction stage it is advisable to install a pipe under the floor directly to the fireplace, through which the required amount of air will flow.

To organize a hood, they most often resort to the services of experts; this article is aimed at craftsmen who plan to carry out the installation themselves. Next, we will consider the main recommendations for constructing such ventilation, common problems and disadvantages.

How to make a natural ventilation system with your own hands

Natural ventilation works based on physical laws - due to the difference between warm air indoors and cold air outside (warm air is lighter) as well as pressure differences. Based on this, we came up with a simple design that is quite simple to make in a private house: in the center of the future home, most often in a load-bearing wall, a channel with a cross-section of about 130–140 mm is laid. Horizontal branches with a diameter of 100–100 mm are drawn from it into the rooms of the house.

Diagram and design of a system with a ventilation duct

Ventilation system design

Correct installation

Ventilation duct in the wall

To organize wiring they use. Then physics comes into play - warmer room air is under pressure and is drawn out due to traction force, colder street air enters the rooms through specially made channels, or naturally (doorways, open windows, etc.).

Placement of supply ducts in the wall

1. The thickness of the walls of the exhaust duct must be at least one and a half bricks. Otherwise, the air in it will quickly cool and the reverse process will occur - the air will not be drawn out, but will flow into the rooms.
2. The pipe at the outlet of the exhaust duct on the roof must be higher than the ridge. Otherwise, roof turbulence will interfere with the normal operation of the traction.

Bringing the system to the street

The main flow channel, as described above, is done in a standard way. But the influx of fresh air coming from the street can be organized in two ways - either by making flow channels in the window sills, or by making gaps in the windows. When choosing the second method, it is better to use metal-plastic windows, which have one competitive advantage over wooden ones - an increased level of sound insulation. These measures will be enough to ventilate the house to the required extent.

Fresh air is essential

If we talk about the advantage of using natural ventilation over forced ventilation (filters, radiators, etc.), you need to focus on two points - noise and air frequency.

Natural ventilation does not require additional equipment (at least, you can do without it). This means that there will be no extraneous noise in the house from operating fans and radiators.

Many people, when installing air purifying filters, forget that they require constant replacement. After prolonged use, the filter becomes dirty and the air passing through it is not cleaned, but is supplied with an additional dose of dust and other substances, making it even more polluted. There is no need to control air exchange during natural ventilation - especially since some of the large particles coming into the house from the street along with the air settle on the windowsills, where they can be easily removed with a damp cloth. And if we assume that wet cleaning is carried out in the house regularly, then this should not cause any additional inconvenience.

Video: how to arrange a natural hood

Don't forget about the air conditioning system. A properly organized tandem of natural, forced ventilation and air conditioning will make life in the house comfortable and safe for health.